• Nissan 240SX
• BMW E36
• Nissan Skyline R33
• Mazda RX-8
• Honda Civic
• Mazda MX-5 Miata (Eunos)
• Lexus SC (Toyota Soarer)
• Lexus IS (Toyota Altezza)
• Nissan 350Z (Z33)
• Toyota GT86 (BRZ, FRS)
• Honda S2000
• Ford Mustang
• Subaru WRX STI
• Volkswagen Golf GTI
• Volkswagen Beetle

In a hurry? Then watch our best project cars roundup

You don’t have to be going through a midlife crisis to feel the need for a project car. Owning one can be one of the most enjoyable, yet tough, decisions you’re likely to make.

Whether you just want to strip the car back to a bare shell and start from scratch or create a budget street weapon, this guide will undoubtedly help with your decision.

Sure, chances are it’s probably not going to be the wisest financial choice you’ve ever made, but you can’t put a price tag on the amount of enjoyment you can get out of cheap project cars.

Often, you can sell them for what you paid, in fact, some of our choices are already increasing in value, so it could well be the perfect time to snap one up as a future investment before they continue to escalate further.

Initial considerations for best project cars

We highly recommend considering some important factors before you decide which car you’d like to go with, especially if this is your first project car adventure.

First, consider what body style you want. Are you interested in trucks? Or would you have a sports coupe instead? Do you want to spend time figuring out a fancy dual-clutch transmission? Or would you rather put affordability first and settle on a manual gearbox?

Will the car be daily driven? Or are you one of those tuners who strictly purchase sports cars just to take them out on track days? In the case of a daily driver, the mods you make will most likely need to be done over the evenings and weekends. On the other hand, you can perform sports car modifications anytime you see fit.

If you’re lucky enough to have storage space then this is obviously not a concern and you can leave the car on axle stands for a few days or weeks without worry when carrying out upgrades/maintenance/repairs.

Are spares easily available and within your budget? Now, there are heaps of alternative project cars you could potentially go with outside of our recommendations, but we’ve already considered the fact that most parts for these cars are available on the used market for relatively reasonable prices.

If you’re considering something super rare that’s likely to break every other week and cost you a fortune in impossible to source parts, it’s probably going to end up being more frustrating than enjoyable. So, we recommend you choose a platform that has good aftermarket support and plenty of aftermarket parts to choose from.

Should I look for a high-powered car?

Is the car going to provide enough power for your current plans? Is the engine even running? You’ll need to think about which upgrades are planned further down the line and what potential upgrades and engine swaps are available for that specific car.

We’ve noticed that budgets rarely work with these things, but it’s always good to have a rough idea in mind.

If drifting is your aim, you’re obviously going to need to be looking at the rear-wheel-drive platforms in our guide. It’s always easy to want to buy something with huge power to begin with, but lower powered cars can be heaps of fun too, so they’re definitely worth considering.

And do not forget, you’ll have to spend a fair chunk of money for some suspension upgrades and a heavy-duty set of brakes too!

Thankfully, you can enjoy what high-powered cars have to offer without having to spend a penny from the comfort of your computer with games such as Drift Hunters and Madalin Stunt Cars 3.

Think outside the box

Sure, you’re probably already thinking along the lines of, “Drift car? Simple, I’ll get a 240SX!” However, remember that this is what others are thinking too, and this is where ‘drift’ or ‘scene’ tax comes into play, and you’ll probably end up being screwed over on prices for parts.

And of course, the size of your engine bay is the only limiting factor for the endless amount of engine swap options out there.

With that being said, it’ll undoubtedly be worth it if you have your heart set on a specific selection that you’ve always dreamed of owning. We’ve made some pretty questionable choices in our time but we don’t have any regrets!

You’re on Drifted, so chances are you’re set on something Rear Wheel Drive. However, don’t completely rule out Front Wheel Drive cars too, these can be heaps of fun, especially if you’re looking for something cheap. A great-handling, cheap FWD on a tight and twisty track would provide great bang for your buck.

Before we begin, check out what Donut Media’s opinion of the best tuner cars for under $10k to give you some initial ideas!

Now, let’s take a look at our budget project cars

Remember, project cars don’t have to be the absolute best cars on the market, nor does it have to be what your buddies think is cool. Find something YOU like, pour a s**tload load of blood, sweat, and tears into it, and it’ll soon win over your heart. (Or become your worst enemy, but we’ll hope for the best!)

Best Project Cars #1 – Nissan 240SX (S13, 180SX)

• Model year: 1989-1999
• Engine size: 2.4L
• Power output: 1989-1990 – 140 bhp (100 kW) | 1991-1994 – 155 bhp (116 kW)
• Drivetrain configuration: RWD

Our comment: Yeah, you knew it was coming! It’s been hugely popular since it rose to fame in the ’90s, and the 240SX is certainly no exception now. Due to their cult following and age/drifting taking its toll, the 240SX has undoubtedly risen in price over time. Reasonably priced models can still be had, but be prepared for it to be a little more of a project than you perhaps planned.

If you have a choice, we recommend going with the KA24DE which has more power out of the box, and far more tuning potential. Many owners choose to swap out the engine for an SR20DET, which it actually left the factory with on the JDM equivalent (180SX).

If power is your aim, then you may feel a little riskier and want to opt for a Skyline RB25 or RB26 replacement for something a little different!

As you’ve probably guessed, the 240SX is an incredibly capable lightweight chassis with great handling for drifting and will undoubtedly make a great platform for a project if you’ve got the cash. If you want to know more about why we recommend 240SX’s so highly, make sure you check out our ‘Why the Nissan 240SX is the best drift car’ guide.

If you feel like the 240SX is the ideal project for you, and maybe have a little more money to splash, we highly recommend checking out S14’s!

CarThrottle Review: “The chassis, the chassis is where this car shines. Now I am not going to talk about the drift potential of this vehicle. The internet will tell 1000 times its great for drifting and it will tell you 1000 more times. The car is tossable into corners. It can really carry a lot of speed through sweepers and tight twisties. The steering is fast, transmission is tight, pedals in the perfect spot and a chassis that communicates really makes this a fun car to carve in.”

“I genuinely feel like people who buy this JUST for drifting are missing out. Not that doing that is a bad thing but SO many people look at this vehicle like its god given talent was drifting that they miss out on the other great things this car can achieve. You S-chassis owners that don’t, try some canyon carving, autocross or track, you guys are really missing out. This car has plenty more on its resume than its drifting career.”

– Read the full review

Best Project Cars #2 – BMW E36

• Model year: 1990-2000
• Engine size: 1.8L-2.8L
• Power output: 73 kW (98 bhp) to 142 kW (190 bhp)
• Drivetrain configuration: RWD

Our comment: The German legend has arrived. Known throughout America and Europe as one of the best budget drift cars, the BMW E36 has definitely earned its place on our list. In Europe, E36’s generally out-number most other cars at drift days, and with parts easily sourced and common, they’re becoming a great alternative to the more expensive JDM cars.

Their popularity in the US has also risen quickly in recent years, with companies such as Pandem modernizing it with their Rocket Bunny kits to keep the stance (and brave drift) scene happy.

There are several different models of the E36, but a few basic mods will allow even the lowest power ones to go sideways. We highly recommend these for some cheap, great handling fun!

With E46’s more affordable than ever, these are also a fantastic option if you fancy something a little more modern. If you like the old-school look, E30’s have to be a sure temptation. We always love M3’s, but we also know first hand the cost involved with owning them, so proceed with caution if they tickle your fancy!

Motortrend Review: “The E36 generation BMW 3 Series Coupes has a quite a few highs, the odd low and a whole heap of appeal. There are some rough examples around and buying a well-serviced car that’s been kept as close to standard trim as possible is a wise move.”

– Read the full review

Best Project Cars #3 – Nissan Skyline R33

• Model year: 1993-1998
• Engine size: 2.0L-2.5L
• Power output: 96 kW (128 bhp) to 184 kW (247 bhp)
• Drivetrain configuration: RWD

Our comment: Nissan Skyline R32 and R34 prices have shot through the roof in recent years, even for the lesser models. Luckily, if you’re after a Skyline, the R33 has remained relatively affordable during that time.

It’s certainly not the cheapest option on our list, but it’s a whole lot of car for the money. We expect that these will eventually creep up in value like their siblings too, even if they are the ugly duckling of the bunch.

With up to 250hp available from the RB engine in stock form, they also take extremely well to upgrades with some simple bolt-on modifications to squeeze the extra horses out.

Weighing in at 1,360kg, these certainly aren’t the lightest of our choices, but strip out the interior and some handling mods and we have no doubt it’ll keep you grinning ear to ear around the track.

Autospeed Review: “The RB25DET is undoubtedly one of the best single turbo engines we’ve ever sat behind. Off-boost torque is strong, but get some load on above about 3000 rpm and she’s a real rocket. Torque holds strong until close to the 7000 rpm redline.”

“The R33 is quite a large car – but its chassis is very well suited to an urban chuck-about. Tromp it a little early exiting a corner the back end squats, cork-screws a little and then eases to the side oh-so progressively. It’s so sublime you don’t always realize that it’s happening.”

– Read the full review

Best Project Cars #4 – Mazda RX-8

• Model year: 2003-2012
• Engine size: 1.3L
• Power output: 141 kW (189 bhp) to 177 kW (237 bhp)
• Drivetrain configuration: RWD

Our comment: You’re probably upset that we didn’t include the RX-7, and believe me, we wanted to. If you can get one reasonably enough, don’t even hesitate! However, we can’t ignore that RX-8 prices are plummeting while FC and FD prices rise, so we think it could well be the perfect time to land an RX8 for a project car base.

With a chassis that is comparable to the legendary FD, the RX8 provides up to 250hp weighing in at just 1,309kg.

On paper, it sounds like the perfect option, however, the reason for these being so cheap is due to the difficult to maintain rotary engines. Despite being incredible technology, they’re definitely not the most reliable engine on the market.

If you can get one cheap enough, consider adding something like an LS1, or take it back to its true heritage with a 13B turbo. This way, you’ve got an affordable AND reliable lightweight drift car!

Although the rotary powerplant can put you off, these fantstic cars happen to be a great platform for an engine swap!

Autocar Review: “First off, there’s still nothing else like an RX-8. That low, sleek coupé shape, those wacky suicide rear doors and two-rotor engine that sounds like a hoover on full chat continue to make it a unique proposition.”

“The RX-8 feels really well balanced, eager to turn in, gripping more strongly at the front and with body roll now much reduced. The back end sticks very well, but switch the DSC off and as you exit a tight bend with power on, round it comes. And that’s in the dry. But it’s all well telegraphed and easy to catch.”

– Read the full review

Best Project Cars #5 – Honda Civic

• Model year: 1991-2000
• Engine size: 1.3L-1.6L
• Power output: 52 kW (70 bhp) to 93 kW (125 bhp)
• Drivetrain configuration: FWD

Our comment: No sighing, please. You’ve probably already realized that here at Drifted, we don’t exactly claim to be Honda Civic experts. That being said, we’ve been out in some track-prepped ones and we know that these can provide a s**tload of fun for the money!

With some models weighing a mere 925kg and capable of up to 125hp before you’ve done any upgrades, these are great value for money.

If you want some cheap, reliable, high-revving front-wheel-drive fun, these are definitely worth considering!

Autocar Review: “Peak horsepower is developed at a lofty 6600 rpm. And there’s no serious penalty for turning the VTEC engine so fast, as it stays remarkably smooth right up to the point where its electronic rpm limiter steps in.”

Best Project Cars #6 – Mazda Miata (Eunos, MX5)

• Model year: 1989-2005
• Engine size: 1.6L-1.8L
• Power output: 86 kW (115 bhp), to 99 kW (133 bhp)
• Drivetrain configuration: RWD

Our comment: Cheap, cheerful and a fantastic base for a daily or a track-car alike. We love the Mazda Miata MX-5 and this throwback to British roadsters really is a unique car to throw sideways with the wind in your hair.

Miatas are certainly not the most powerful, but they’re light and can take a good old-fashioned ass-kicking without causing too much of a fuss. Coilovers and an exhaust can really transform these. If you’ve got some spare cash, you can even go down the supercharger route for maximum potential!

Roadandtrack Review: “By mixing the fun of yesterday’s roadsters with the technology of today, it marks a giant leap forward in the evolution of the sports car.”

– Read the full review

Best Project Cars #7 – Lexus SC400 (Toyota Soarer)

• Model year: 1991-2000
• Engine size: 4.0L
• Power output: 186 kW (250 bhp) to 216 kW (290 bhp)
• Drivetrain configuration: RWD

Our comment: The SC400 was $40,000 worth of car when it was first released, and now they can be had for a steal. The 290hp from the 1UZ-FE V8 isn’t to be sniffed at, but they’re not the lightest cars out there.

Whether you’re looking for a drift car, or a VIP/daily, these will fit the bill extremely well. Many owners have gone all-out with 1JZ and 2JZ swaps from the Supra for maximum tuning potential.

The Truth About Cars Review: “There is nothing quite like it!” Every enthusiast I know has that attitude towards their car. But rarely is it actually true. If you find a well preserved one with less than 150k. Buy it. If you can find an SC300 with an all too rare manual tranny in it. Call me first. I’ll buy it and be your new best friend.”

– Read the full review

Best Project Cars #8 – Lexus IS300 (Toyota Altezza)

• Model year: 1999-2005
• Engine size: 4.0L
• Power output: 186 kW (250 bhp) to 216 kW (290 bhp)
• Drivetrain configuration: RWD

Our comment: The Lexus IS300 is quickly becoming a modern-day legend. With great looks and easy tuning ability alongside the potential of plenty of convenient off-the-shelf turbo kits, the 2JZ powerplant has a huge amount of potential.

These once again are great drift, daily or VIP-style cars with a huge amount of mods available on the market. We’ve got guides to show you our favorite coilovers and exhausts specifically for the IS300, and believe me, there’s certainly no shortage of selection!

RAC Review: “If you can track down a reasonably priced IS300, it makes a very satisfying ownership proposition. The interior is well appointed, the engine is delightfully smooth and the reliability record is second to none. As one of those cars that seems to make a whole lot more sense used than new, the IS300 deserves a little recognition.”

– Read the full review

Best Project Cars #9 – Nissan 350Z (Z33)

• Model year: 2003-2008
• Engine size: 3.5L
• Power output: 214 kW (287 bhp) to 228 kW (306 bhp)
• Drivetrain configuration: RWD

Our comment: The 350Z has been popular for many years in all sorts of motorsport, and with the arrival of its younger brother, the 370Z, chances are that you’ll be able to pick one of these up at a more impressive price than ever.

With the reliable, yet underpowered, 3.5L power-lump under the hood and a bombproof gearbox, the 350Z has heaps of tuning potential and we have the perfect guides to help you find the ultimate parts for your build. Some basic mods will make this an extremely capable drift car with a lot of room to progress if you decide to go down the forced induction route later on.

Check out our wide variety of guides for the 350Z, there are simple bolt-on mods such as coilovers, exhausts and cold air intake to get you started.

Once you’ve got the car sitting and sounding nice, you may want to consider the forced induction route. If so, there’s an epic range of tried-and-tested off-the-shelf supercharger and turbo kit options to turn your 350Z into a tire-shredding monster!

If you have big bucks to spend and fancy something a little different, the 370z is a fantastic consideration too.

Evo Review: “I’ve become a massive fan of the latest-generation Z-car. I reckon it’s one of the greatest affordable performance cars of the last ten years.”

Best Project Cars #10 – Toyota GT86/Subaru BRZ/Scion FR-S

• Model year: 2012-2021
• Engine size: 2.0L
• Power output: 147kW (197 bhp) to 153 kW (205 bhp)
• Drivetrain configuration: RWD

Our comment: GT86, BRZ, FR-S, whatever you want to call it! It’s undoubtedly one of the best cars of this decade and prices on the earlier models are now becoming more affordable than ever.

Based on the original AE86, this stunning creation really does tick so many boxes. It may not have a huge amount of power from the factory, but the lightweight with skinny-tire combination makes it insanely fun to drive.

If you do fancy giving it an extra kick up the a**, we’ve got our GT86 turbo and supercharger guides to keep you happy!

For those of you that want to keep it simple and do some basic modifications, make sure you check out our exhaust, coilover guides!

We highly recommend the AE86 as a project car, but unfortunately, prices are soaring. If you’re able to pick one up at a bargain price, don’t even hesitate as it’ll undoubtedly be a great investment!

Top Gear Review: “The simplest and most exciting Toyota in years is also a real pleasure to drive. It says a lot that Toyota took a whole five years to update the GT86, and kept the changes so light when it did. This is a fundamentally great car that may not look or feel especially modern, but that’s sort of the point.”

– Read the full review

Best Project Cars #11 – Honda S2000

• Model year: 1999-2009
• Engine size: 2.0L
• Power output: 177kW (237 bhp) to 184 kW (247 bhp)
• Drivetrain configuration: RWD

Our comment: The S2000 doesn’t typically spring to mind when thinking of project cars, but we think it has heaps of future potential. Prices are starting to get lower and for some of you it will be an affordable consideration

Honda created the S2K to mark the company’s 50th anniversary, and it was certainly lived up to expectations. Think of it as a high-revving modern-day Miata on steroids. Once again, these have a huge variety of off-the-shelf parts if you feel the need for more than 247hp!

If you have the balls to whack a turbocharger on this lightweight chassis, you’ll definitely want to take a look at our turbo and supercharger guides to keep you happy!

For those of you that want to keep it simple and do some basic modifications, make sure you check out our coilover and exhaust guides.

Top Gear Review: “You rev until you think pistons are going to burst through the bonnet, before grabbing the next gear via the utterly, utterly superb manual shift. One of the best I’ve ever used. Perhaps the best.”

– Read the full review

Best Project Cars #12 – Subaru WRX STI

• Model year: 1992-2021
• Engine size: 2.0-2.5L
• Power output: 184 kW (247 bhp) to 231 kW (310 bhp)
• Drivetrain configuration: AWD

Our comment: We get it, some of you guys aren’t that much into drifting. Well, then let us present you our next choice – a multiple-time WRC championship-winning rally car!

From the beginning, Subaru’s main goal with the WRX STI was to conquer the world of rallying. And to say that they achieved their goal would be an understatement. Powered by Subaru’s legendary boxer engine, this AWD saloon won the WRC constructors title 3 times.

This is one of the most popular tuner car platforms in the world, and you’ll find plenty of “Subie” aficionados no matter where you go. Oh, and did we mention that it can comfortably carry your whole family?

If you decide to go for a WRX STI, there are a few well-known reliability issues that you should keep an eye out for. And we have one more request – Please don’t start vaping!

Car And Driver Review: “The STI is the mightiest and most aggressive WRX, but also the noisiest, stiffest-riding, and rawest.”

– Read the full review

Best Project Cars #13 – Volkswagen Golf GTI

• Model year: 1976-Present
• Engine size: 1.6-2.0L
• Power output: 82 kW (110 bhp) to 180 kW (241 bhp)
• Drivetrain configuration: FWD

Our comment: Let’s take a break from the Japanese stuff and head to Germany for our next entry. The Golf GTI makes a great family car, and an even greater project car if you decide to go crazy with the modifications.

As of 2023, there have been 8 generations of the Golf GTI. You can pick up an early-generation model for cheap, strip out the interior, and have a great, lightweight hatchback to take to the track.

If you have some more cash to spend, you can splash out on an R32 or a modern Golf R, which will give sportscar-beating levels of performance with just a few bolt-ons.

CarWow Review: “The Golf GTI is a great all-rounder – fast enough to be great fun, sensible enough to drive every day comfortably. But the Golf R is even faster”

– Read the full review

Best Project Cars #14 – Volkswagen Beetle

• Model year: 1938-2003
• Engine size: 1.1-1.6L
• Power output: 16kW (22 bhp) to 84 kW (115 bhp)
• Drivetrain configuration: RWD

Our comment: We know your thoughts, but hear us out! Rear engine, RWD, air-cooled – the VW Beetle is effectively a budget Porsche 911.

Jokes aside, if you are serious about picking up a project car for the cheap, there are few better options than this venerable “people’s car” Although it came with a mind-blowingly slow motor from the factory, there are plenty of modifications available to give this little car some get up and go.

If you are crazy enough, you can do some wild engine swaps with the Beetle as well. Everything from Subaru EJs to Honda’s K-series motors has found its way to the engine bay of this affordable family car.

RAC Review: “You’ll either love or hate the ‘new’ Volkswagen Beetle. Some will celebrate it as an icon brought up to date, whilst others will feel it’s a sad pastiche of a best-forgotten relic and a Golf in drag. Whatever way you look at it, the Beetle is here, it’s sold rather well and it’s great fun to own”

– Read the full review

Best Project Cars #15 – Ford Mustang

• Model year: 1985-Present
• Engine size: 2.3-5.0L
• Power output: 220 hp (Foxbody) to 412 hp (Ford Mustang GT)
• Drivetrain configuration: RWD

Our comment: When the Ford Mustang isn’t busy trying to run over spectators, it can make a pretty damn good project car!

Although many of you may have gotten bored of seeing Mustangs over the years and feel they’ve somewhat lost their appeal, why not use that to your advantage?

Let’s face it, the best project cars are those that are easy to source parts for, preferably with adequate power already under the hood, and the Mustang ticks both of those boxes.

Although there’s no shortage of Mustangs waiting to be transformed into tire-shredding monsters in the US, you may still be able to pick up a bargain elsewhere.

With the early Foxbody versions pushing out 220 hp in stock form, the Mustang GT can also be found with ever-impressive price tags.

If possible, we’d be hunting down a 5.0L V8 GT, with a great power-to-value output of 412 hp, and a 0-60 time of 4.6 seconds.

With drivers such as Chelsea DeNofa and Diego Higa keeping Mustang’s in the drifting limelight, there’s no question that the chassis is more than capable when it comes to being thrown sideways at the track.

Although Ford has achieved a whopping 760 hp from the 2020 GT500 in stock form, we doubt you’ll be finding one of those on a budget just yet.

CarandDriver Review: “The Mustang GT accelerates with a sound and fury that imported sports coupes cannot match.”

– Read the full review

We normally decide our winner here…

This time, all our choices are winners for different reasons.

We’ve selected these cars from literally thousands of possibilities, and we’ve tried to give a wide variety of price ranges and choices. Admittedly, they may be a little drift biased, but what else would you expect from Drifted?

We have no doubt that whichever car you select, you’re most likely going to have a rollercoaster ride at some point during your ownership, but as long as you see the project through, we have no doubt it’ll be worth every minute you put into it.

Project cars have a special place in the hearts of car enthusiasts, and it’ll open up a whole realm of possibilities as you begin to build the car, take it to meets and take it to the track. We hope you manage to build the car of your dreams and make new friends that last a lifetime.

Thank you for reading our best budget project cars guide

We hope that you’re now confident in choosing the right car to satisfy your inner urges!

Photography credits

We would like to thank the following sources for the use of their images:

• Fitment Industries

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• The Best In-Game Settings
• Learning the Basics
• Creating Your Forza Horizon 4 Drift Tune
• Conclusion

Introduction to Forza Horizon 4 Drift Tune

Forza Horizon 4 is one of the most popular racing games ever created, and once you’re behind the wheel and experiencing what the tight and twisty streets of the UK have to offer, you’ll soon see why.

If you’re looking to improve your Horizon 4 skills, it’s going to be essential to learn how to drift.

With a vast selection of drift zones within the game, you’ll be fighting to earn various medals alongside pushing your way up the leaderboard in the quest for the top spots against some of the world’s best drifters.

Before you can learn to master the art, you’re going to need to build a Forza Horizon 4 drift tune that will serve as a stable platform to refine your skills.

Why Start From Scratch?

Although you’re able to download drift tunes that other users have created, you’ll soon reach your limits without the ability to customize and refine your drift tune, and it’ll end up holding you back.

For this reason, the best way to build a drift tune is to start from scratch, with a thorough understanding of what each element of the process entails.

This way, when your car isn’t performing exactly how you’d like, you’ll be far more confident that you know what needs tweaking to refine it to perfection.

Be prepared, drifting is a skill acquired over time, and you may well feel frustrated, to begin with, but you’ll soon reap the rewards once you start to improve and gain confidence.

In this guide, we’ll be looking at creating a Rear-Wheel Drive drift tune. Although you’re not required to follow our car and upgrade choices specifically, we’d recommend doing so to get you started, as you can always change your setup once you’ve gained a thorough understanding of drift tuning.

The Formula Drift cars in the game can be a temptation, but to begin with, you’re better off finding a more customizable vehicle that isn’t such a handful.

Sure, the FD pack is heaps of fun, and we highly recommend you take the opportunity to enjoy it once you’ve refined your skills.

The Best In-Game Settings

The first step before you start drifting is to ensure you have the optimal in-game settings.

Even with the world’s most incredible drift tune, if you’ve got the wrong settings, then you’re going to struggle even to get your car sideways.

Braking – ABS Off

We prefer to use ABS off for maximum car control.

You can use ABS if you’d rather, but real-world drift cars rarely use ABS, so it’s a great way to refine your braking skills.

ABS off will also allow you to maximize your left-foot-braking potential, which you’re likely to find hugely helpful when you begin doing tandems with friends and other players later on.

Steering – Normal

There’s no real right or wrong here, but it boils down to personal preference, and for us, that’s with ‘normal’ steering.

Although you’ll find yourself rapidly switching left and right to steer, in our opinion, it’s the more comfortable option to get to grips with drifting. However, it’s worth giving both a try to see what suits you best.

Traction Control – Off

Ugh. Traction control. No, just no. Some of you may use it for racing, but for drifting, it’s going to fight against your car when you try to drift.

The last thing you want is a driving assist stopping you from sliding.

Stability Control – Off

Well, just like traction control, this is an absolute no for drifting. We don’t recommend either for complete beginners, as it’s more likely to confuse and frustrate you than it is to assist.

Shifting – Manual, or Manual W/Clutch

For beginners, we would only ever use ‘MANUAL’ transmission as a minimum, and we recommend that you also do so from the start.

However, those of you that have some driving, or drifting experience, give ‘MANUAL W/CLUTCH’ a try and see how you go.

You may be thinking it’s a pointless gimmick, but the clutch plays a significant role when it comes to refining your drifting ability, and utilizing clutch kicking will improve your skills as you progress.

If you’re new to driving entirely, you can start with Auto if you feel it’s necessary, but we always recommend manual from the start. Auto is just annoying and is likely to leave you in the wrong gear.

Driving Line – Optional

We’ll leave you to decide whether you’ll benefit from this to get you started.

It won’t affect how the game plays, but it’ll just give you an idea of the racing line that the game advises.

Just remember that this isn’t a drifting line, but if you’re getting started, then it may give you an idea when it comes to assessing the speed to approach a corner in advance.

Damage & Tire Wear – Optional

These boil down to personal preferences, and we leave it off, especially for longer sessions, as we feel it’s more for racing than drifting.

Although the tire wear feature can be fascinating to see how they’re heating up, they’ll soon be rendered useless, and the repeated need to pit or exit soon becomes an unnecessary waste of time.

Rewind – Optional

We always leave this on, as it can sometimes be helpful to turn back the clock when we mess up on a corner. If only the real world were this simple!

Now that we’ve got the in-game settings set up optimally let’s begin creating our drift tune.

Learning the Basics

If you’re a beginner to drifting, make sure you check out this Forza Horizon 4 drifting basics video to begin, so that you have an understanding before we head to creating our drift tune.

If you’re keen to dive deeper into how to master the art of drifting and make the back end step out, make sure you check out our How to Drift guide.

Don’t feel disappointed if you end up spending hours and hours doing full throttle donuts in the practice areas to get the hang of it.

Drifting is a real test of patience, but we guarantee that the end reward is worth the effort.

Creating Your Forza Horizon 4 Drift Tune

Now that you’ve learned how to initiate and maintain a consistent drift and got your in-game settings correct, it’s time to look into creating your Forza Horizon 4 drift tune.

If you prefer to follow a video guide, then hit play on CToretto’s fantastic video below; although we have tweaked the 350Z to our personal preference, you can follow either guide for a solid base tune.

Choosing Your Car

Although you can choose any car and use this as a base setup, we know how much the fans at Drifted love the Nissan 350Z, so let’s use that as our base platform.

We’d recommend switching cars once you’re confident that you’re capable of driving well with the 350Z and that you’ve learned enough to refine your Forza Horizon 4 drift tune. Just make sure not to pick anything front-wheel drive!

Upgrading Your Car

Head into the ‘CUSTOM UPGRADE’ option in the menu as we begin to install the mods that will provide us with more than enough power to spin up the back wheels.

Conversion

Once you’re in the upgrade shop, your first port of call is heading to the ‘CONVERSION’ department.

Here, you can upgrade to the Rocket Bunny widebody kit, and also install a twin-turbocharger setup to your 350Z under under ‘ASPIRATION’.

Engine

Next up, it’s time to extract the power from the VQ35DE V6 engine with the various upgrades available.

If you’re keen to swap out the engine, then make sure you take a look at our Engine Swaps Guide.

Intake

Race intake

Fuel System

Race fuel system

Ignition

Race ignition

Exhaust

Race exhaust

Camshaft

Race cams and valves

Valves

Race valves

Displacement

Race engine block

Pistons/Compression

Race pistons/compression

Twin Turbo

Race twin-turbo

Intercooler

Race intercooler

Oil/Cooling

Race oil/cooling

Flywheel

Race flywheel

Platform & Handling

Now that the engine is pushing out some excellent power figures, it’s time to look at getting your 350Z handling and braking correctly.

Brakes

Race brakes

Spring and Dampers

Drift spring and dampers

Front Anti-Roll Bars

Race front anti-roll bars

Rear Anti-Roll Bars

Race rear anti-roll bars

Chassis Reinforcement/Roll Cage

Race chassis reinforcement/roll cage

Weight Reduction

Race weight reduction

Drivetrain

Upgrading the drivetrain, such as the clutch, ensures that your 350Z is capable of utilizing its new-found power gains to their full potential.

Upgrades such as the 2-way differential enable equal power distribution between the rear wheels for the perfect drift.

Clutch

Race clutch

Transmission

Race transmission

Differential

Race differential

Tires and Rims

When it comes to rims, this is optional since there’s so little difference between them, so go with whatever wheels suit your personal preferences. We’re huge fans of Work Wheels.

When it comes to tires, we want sufficient grip to control the car, but not too much grip that it struggles to spin up the rear wheels.

Tire Compound

Sport tire compound

Front Tire Width

245/40R18

Rear Tire Width

265/40R18

Wheels

Personal preference (we recommend the Work Equip 01)

Front Rim Size

245/35R19

Rear Rim Size

265/35R19

Aero and Appearance

When it comes to drifting, aero makes hardly any difference due to the speeds you’ll be doing. Therefore, we would class this as optional once again.

We recommend going for your personal preference when it comes to your Rear Wing, but we opted for the ‘NISMO’ style.

Finalizing Your Upgrades

At this point, your necessary upgrades should be complete, and you can come out of the Upgrade Shop.

Hit ‘Install Setup’ and we would expect you to have similar updated specs to the following:

• Weight: 1,268 kg
• Peak Power: 728 hp
• Lateral Gs: 1.7
• Class: S1 (843)

Final upgrade price – Approx 79,000 CR

If your figures look significantly different, then there’s a chance that you may have either installed the incorrect upgrade or left one out entirely.

If there are minor differences, this could be down to choosing different wheels or a wing, so don’t panic, as you won’t notice the difference.

Tuning Your Car

Now that we’ve got the necessary upgrades added to your Forza racer, the chances are that if you were to head straight to the street, then your setup isn’t going to using anywhere near its full potential, which is where tuning is necessary.

Since you’ll be running a stock tune on your car alongside a heap of upgrades, this changes how the car drives and handles, significantly, which is where tuning is going to refine your setup to establish its true potential.

Tires

Tires are, of course, the only element that connects your car to the ground, so this can be vital when it comes to your Forza Horizon 4 drift tune.

For the base tune, we’ll opt with the following settings:

Front: 32 PSI

Rear: 30 PSI

If you’re finding that you’re not getting enough grip in the front or the rear of the car, then you can tweak this as necessary.

The lower the tire pressure, the more grip your car will have, but this could cause your vehicle to grip up when you least expect it, rather than maintaining the drift.

If you have nowhere near enough grip, consider going down to as low as 25 PSI and working your way back up until you feel it’s just right.

Gearing

As you’ve probably guessed, gearing defines how long your car will stay in each gear before it hits the redline and is an important part in creating the ultimate Forza Horizon 4 drift tune.

Where making the gearing too long may stop the engine from producing the power to keep the rear wheels spinning without endless clutch kicking.

On the flip side, if the gearing is too short, then you’ll be bouncing off the limiter as soon as the wheels spin up, making controlling the car near impossible.

Use this as a base, and if you’re not happy with the gearing, then make minor adjustments until you’ve got it exactly how it works best for you.

• Final drive: 3.60
• 1st: 2.89
• 2nd: 1.99
• 3rd: 1.49
• 4th: 1.16
• 5th: 0.98
• 6th: 0.85

Alignment

Alignment is one of the most vital parts when it comes to refining your cars handling, and we highly recommend taking a more in-depth look into Camber, Toe, and Caster if you’re struggling to achieve the perfect setup.

Thanks to the super-realistic physics of Forza Horizon 4, you’ll most likely find better knowledge on real-world configurations that also apply in the game, but unrealistic setups can also work well.

Tuning in Horizon 4 presents the perfect opportunity to tweak and play around to see what works for you.

For now, let’s use this as a base setup:

Camber

Front: -4.0º

Rear: -1.5º

Toe

Front: 0.2

Rear: 0.0

Caster: 7.0

Anti-Roll Bars

Front: 28.55

Rear: 24.49

Springs

Front: 70.0 kgf/mm (or as close as possible)

Rear: 52.0 kgf/mm (or as close as possible)

Ride Height

Front: 9.0 cm

Rear: 9.0 cm

Damping

Rebound stiffness

Front: 9.7

Rear: 8.6

Bump stiffness

Front: 5.4

Rear: 5.0

Aero

Downforce

Front: 75 (if unlocked)

Brake

Balance: 50%

Pressure: 100%

Differential

Acceleration: 100%

Deceleration: 85%

Forza Horizon 4 Drift Tune Conclusion

When it comes to creating a drift setup, each person has their personal preferences on how their car drives and handles, but we feel confident that we’ve provided a great base to get you started in this guide.

There’s a tremendous amount of information out there when it comes to tuning your drift car in Forza Horizon 4, and there are some in-depth guides on YouTube, such as this excellent video from HokiHoshi:

The best thing you can do is adjust the setup to suit your needs, as there’s such a wide variety of factors at play, even down to the preference of controller or wheel.

If you’re keen to learn the in’s and out’s of drift tuning to get the very best out of your setup, then check out this insanely comprehensive guide to teach you everything you could ever need to know when it comes to drift tuning.

Once you’ve enjoyed what this Nissan Fairlady 350Z tune has to offer, make sure you head over to our Forza Horizon 4 best drift cars guide and try out some of the best of the FH4 selection.

So, there we have it! We hope that we’ve provided you with a solid Forza Horizon 4 drift tune to begin your Forza Horizon 4 drifting journey.

Looking to try Forza Horizon 4 on your VR rig? Then read our VR guide.

Want to master your Horizon 5 drifting skills? Then check out our recommended Forza Horizon 5 drift tune.

Thank you for reading our Forza Horizon 4 Drift Tune guide.

If you enjoyed this article, then please share it with the buttons at the side and bottom of your screen. If you’ve found this information useful, then please take a moment to share it with other Forza Horizon enthusiasts. We appreciate your support.

Photography credits

We thank the following entities for the use of their photography in our Forza Horizon 4 Drift Tune guide:

• PixelGhostClyde on Flickr
• crash71100 on Flickr

The post Ultimate Forza Horizon 4 Drift Tune Guide first appeared on Drifted.com.

• Our RC drift cars winners
• Ready-to-Run vs kit vs chassis – the differences explained
• Ready-to-Run RC drift cars
• RC drift car kits
• RC drift car chassis

In a hurry? Here is our RC Drift Car summary

RC Drift Car Kit Choice	Ready-to-Run Choice	RC Drift Car Chassis Choice
HPI RS4 Sport 3 4WD Drift Car Kit	MST RMX 2.5 RTR Drift Car Kit	Usukani D3T 1/8 RC Drift Tricycle Chassis Kit
Buy Now	Buy Now	Buy Now

Our ready-to-run RC drift car choice

Whether you’re just getting started with RC drifting and want an excellent ready-to-go car right out of the box or you’re not interested in building a kit, the MST RMX 2.5 offers the ultimate opportunity.

MST RMX 2.5 RTR Drift Car Kit

Our choice for the ready-to-run RC Drift Cars is the MST RMX 2.5 RTR Drift Car Kit

With their upgraded brushless ready-to-run radio control car, high speeds can be achieved from this incredible value-for-money MST RTR kit.

With the insane choice of bodies, from Liberty Walk Mustangs to Toyota GR Supra‘s, you’ll struggle to find a better-looking ride.

Our RC drift car kit choice

Having stood the test of time, the HPI Sport 3 doesn’t feature the latest, cutting-edge technology. Instead, you get a highly-regarded platform with incredible durability that has stood the test of time.

HPI RS4 Sport 3 4WD Drift Car Kit

Our favorite is the Worthouse S15, which comes with interchangeable vinyl, allowing you to drift as three-time FD Champion James Deane or his teammate, Piotr Wiecek!

Our choice for the RC Drift Car Kit choice is the HPI RS4 Sport 3 4WD Drift Car Kit

For someone not looking to spend huge bucks on their RC drift car immediately, this kit presents a p

erfect opportunity for beginners looking for some simple fun without breaking the bank.

Our RC drift car chassis choice

Now, admittedly this is a controversial winner since the Yokomo YD-2 is technically a more refined and superior quality kit (although they are becoming hard to find).

Usukani D3T 1/8 RC Drift Tricycle Chassis Kit

Our choice for the RC drift car chassis is the Usukani D3T Drift Tricycle Chassis

Is there anything more JDM then a completely bonkers tricycle RC drift car? You are spoilt for choice with complex chassis kits but for pure fun factor, we absolutely love the Usuakni D3T drift trike!

Introduction to RC drift cars

As much as we love real-life drifting, we’re never going to deny that it’s an expensive hobby.

Not only do you have to worry about maintenance and repairs on your drift car, but tires and fuel need to be a serious consideration, too.

That’s before you’ve even considered the endless list of upgrades and modifications that you want to do to make the car competitive.

Once you’ve built the car of your dreams, you then need to consider the costs of getting to and from events, then when it gets more serious, the cost of racing equipment.

Although drifting is one of the most insanely exciting hobbies on the planet, unfortunately, it comes with a never-ending cost.

These disadvantages have birthed the concept of VR sim racing and free online drifting games, with enthusiasts building increasingly impressive drifting sim rigs so that they can get their precious seat time at a fraction of the price.

Not only is this extremely useful for training, but it also comes at a fraction of the price and inconvenience that comes with running a real car.

But, what if you’re still craving the physical art form of drifting?

Sure, gaming might tick the right boxes for some of you, but there’s always something incredibly exciting about the feeling of controlling a physical drift car, whether it’s full-sized, or in miniature scale. This is where RC drifting becomes the perfect solution.

Not only do you get to learn the basics of car control, gaining knowledge in areas like counter-steering alongside an understanding of weight shift and braking under load, but also it’s hugely entertaining in the process.

If you’re just getting started with RC drifting, our How to Drift guide will be a fantastic place to start, as it’ll give you a much deeper understanding of what the car is doing and how it’s reacting to the various inputs which allow you to master the art of drifting.

Once you’ve got to grips with the basics, you’ll want to decide which RC drift car is best for your needs, so first, let us explain the various RC drift car variations on the market.

Ready-to-run vs kit vs chassis – the differences explained

As you’ve probably noticed, we’ve broken down this guide into three different categories to allow you to choose the perfect drift car for your needs, or maybe even the lucky person you’re buying for.

Ready-to-run RC drift cars

Ready-to-run is the most self-explanatory method when it comes to RC drift cars, and often makes the ideal gift for a first-time RC drift car owner.

You buy the car that ticks the right boxes for your needs (or perhaps your kids’), have it conveniently sent to your door, remove the packaging, and immediately begin testing the boundaries once the batteries are installed and charged.

You can probably expect a few crashes to happen very shortly after!

Ready-to-run kits are the easiest, most convenient, and often the cheapest method if you’re just getting started with RC drifting. We often think of these cars as an ideal entry to the sport.

The downside of ready-to-run kits is that if you happen to have a high-speed impact and something gets broken, you’re most probably going to be left having to replace the entire car.

Therefore, if you’re looking to get serious with your RC drift car right away, or you can see this potentially becoming a long-term hobby, we’d advise that you continue reading. You’ll thank us later.

RC drift car kits

With a kit, you would typically receive the car in many parts, which you then need to construct yourself, but don’t panic; it’s not as difficult as it sounds, as you’ll have clear instructions to guide you.

I’m sure many of you would be wondering why anyone would want to do this, so we’re going to explain the advantages of a kit.

With a ready-to-run remote control cars, the chances are that if you have a severe impact, you may end up breaking some of the parts on your vehicle.

In this situation, you’re most likely going to have to either cut your losses or return your car in the hope that it’s repairable, but the chances are that’s not very likely or cost-effective.

With a kit, not only do you get to enjoy the pleasure of building the car, which you could perhaps make a family affair, but you’ll also gain an excellent understanding of how the different components of the car work – this is the perfect introduction for an aspiring mechanic.

Not only do you gain an understanding of the car and have the enjoyment of the build process, but if you were to crash your RC drift car and break one, or more components, you can assess the damage and replace the spare part(s) necessary.

The ability to fix any damage is the main advantage of a kit; instead of buying a ready-to-run car.

Once your replacement parts turn up, you’ll now know how to replace them with your newfound knowledge from building the car, and you can then enjoy many more hours of worry-free drifting (assuming your abilities have improved since the crash, of course!)

Another advantage of buying a kit is that you’ll likely want superior upgrades as your skill levels progress.

Whether that’s an improved chassis, batteries, motor, or suspension, you name it; you can upgrade everything and build the RC drift car of your dreams without having to buy EVERY part each time like you would with a ready-to-run car.

For the RC drift car enthusiast, this can make for great Birthday and Christmas present opportunities.

Are you looking to upgrade your suspension? No worries, Grandma’s got you covered this year!

We always recommend that you carefully look into the possibility that a kit may need additional components. Most kits don’t come with all of the required electrical components, for example.

RC drift car chassis

Kits and Chassis are typically very similar. The main times that we would consider buying the bare-bones chassis rather than a kit is if we couldn’t find the perfect body shell.

Sometimes, it perhaps works out cheaper to buy a chassis and a shell separately, but otherwise, we would consider opting for a kit and then keeping the shell as a spare for practicing.

Now that you’ve read our explanation of the different variations, you’re clued up when it comes to purchasing the perfect RC drift car package for your needs, so let’s take a look at the best RC drift cars on the market!

Ready-to-run RC drift cars

Here is our selection of ready-to-run RC drift cars:

MST RMX 2.5 Brushless RTR RC Drift Car

• Manufacturer: MST
• Suitable for: 14 years and up
• Configuration: RWD
• Scale ratio: 1/10th
• Value for money product rating
• Purchase link: MST RMX 2.5 RTR w/Rocket Bunny Toyota GR Supra Body (Metal Grey) (many more JDM body options available)

Our comment: The most recent ready-to-run chassis to shake up the RC drift scene came with the introduction of the MST RMX 2.5 at the start of 2023.

With the latest technology within an affordable package, it’s easy to see why many RC drift fans feel that it’s a perfect choice.

Aimed at both beginner and intermediate RC drifters, the MST RMX 2.5 will be more than capable when rubbing doors with some of the premium kits on the market.

One of the benefits of an RTR kit is that MST checks each model before it’s shipped, which means it’s perfectly calibrated and set up right out of the box. So if you notice minimal tire wear with your new purchase, don’t panic!

Although the RMX 2.5 can throw down huge, consistent angles right out of the box, it also provides two motor install locations and two servo install locations if you wish to adjust the weight distribution.

Whether you’re just getting started with RC drifting and want an excellent ready-to-go car right out of the box or you’re not interested in building a kit, the MST RMX 2.5 offers the ultimate opportunity.

With the insane choice of bodies, from Liberty Walk Mustangs to Toyota GR Supra‘s, you’ll struggle to find a better-looking ride on the market.

Manufacturer description: “This is the MST RMX 2.5 1/10 2WD Brushless RTR Drift Car. Building off of the success of the RMX 2.0 this updated version brings the next level of performance to the RMX name. With countless hours of research and development, MST has fine tuned the RMX platform for the ultimate drift experience.”

“Designed to be easy to drive for beginners but still rewarding for the experienced drifter, MST has included an updated chassis. This improved chassis offers increased traction and control along with a plethora of adjustments to fine tune your driving experience. Whether you are an experienced drifter or just getting started, the RMX 2.5 RTR gives you the performance you are looking for with looks to match!”

Features

• Two motor install options – upper or lower gravity
• Two servo install options – vertical or lateral
• Plastic high-rigidity construction
• Unique front suspension system for great steering
• The adjustable steering system with two-step Ackermann changes
• 6 degrees KPI steering upright, and -0.5 trailing axle design
• An inside rod fulcrum mount at the front upper arm features 10-step height adjustment and both side positions
• Fully-sealed dustproof bevel gearbox system
• Standard ball differential
• 5 changeable second-deceleration-ratio gear sets of 1.89-3.82 (standard 3.08)
• The fulcrum at the rear suspension upper rod is 5-step adjustable on both sides. The outer fulcrum is 4-step adjustable on both sides
• Steel CVD axle for rear transmission system
• Suitable for long and short battery
• Full great smooth metal ball connectors
• Standard realistic caliper and disc shape brake set

HSP FlyingFish Nissan Skyline GT-R RC Drift Car

• Manufacturer: HSP
• Suitable for: 14 years and up
• Configuration: 4WD
• Scale ratio: 1/10th
• Model number: 94123
• Value for money product rating
• Purchase link: Discontinued online

Our comment: If you’re looking for a bargain, then you’re going to struggle to get more for your money than the HSP FlyingFish.

Thanks to the newly upgraded RC 540 motor, this provides impressive performance and enables speeds of over 35km/h out of the box.

If you’re looking to go even faster (which isn’t necessary for learning the basics of drifting), then make sure you take a look at the higher-spec brushless version, which is capable of an incredible 60km/h!

Although this is far cheaper than the HPI equivalents above, the materials are known for being a little more fragile. However, spares are easily sourced online.

The HSP FlyingFish is a genuine bargain, and a fantastic entry to RC drifting for the money.

Manufacturer description: “You can now get your own serious RC Hobby Drift Car at an amazing price. Straight out of the box this RC car is very competitive while the fully adjustable suspension lets you fine-tune to each track spec. Mash the throttle and the new RC 540 screams into life with a massive 22% more power and 9% lighter chassis, this new RC model is seriously competitive. You will truly be astonished by the quality of this RC Drift Car for the price you are paying. Everyone will want one.”

“This latest version has an even lower center of gravity and coupled to 4 wheel shaft drive and the latest Driftech Low profile drift tires makes 4 wheel drifts easier than ever. Comes with everything except the 8 AA batteries for the transmitter.”

Features

• 100% Ready To Run
• 4-Wheel Drive System
• Shaft Drive
• Front and Rear Ball Raced Differentials
• High Discharge 2000mAh 7.2 V NiMh Battery and Charger
• Upgraded RC 540 Race Motor
• Light Weight Alloy Drive Shaft
• Light Weight Aluminium Alloy High-Intensity Upper Plate
• Front and Rear Differentials with Bevel Gears
• Full 4 Wheel A-Arm 100% independent Adjustable Suspension
• Aluminum Cap Oil Filled Adjustable Shock Absorbers
• Adjustable Height
•  Camber Adjustability
• Adjustable tilt angle
• New Even Lighter Smaller Front and Gear Boxes
• HSP Driftech Low Profile Tyres
• 3 Way Electronic Speed Controller with Brake and Reverse
• Factory Installed Servo Saver
• 2 Channel Pistol Grip Radio Factory Installed

Redcat Racing Thunder RC Drift Car

• Manufacturer: Redcat Racing
• Suitable for: 14 years and up
• Configuration: 4WD
• Scale ratio: 1/10th
• Value for money product rating
• Purchase link: Discontinued online

Our comment: The Thunder Drift from Redcat Racing is very similar to their EPX drift car above, except this car comes with the superior belt-driven method for improved performance.

Its improved belt-driven system helps all four wheels move at the same time rather than the lag which you can experience from the cheaper shaft-driven system, and is usually only found in premium RC cars.

Owners have pointed out that the belts have sometimes arrived loose and required tightening, which is an easy fix that improved the performance dramatically.

The Thunder Drift is an insane value-for-money belt-driven drift car, and although we prefer the quality of the HPI products, there’s no questioning that this is a real bargain in comparison.

Manufacturer description: “Welcome to a whole new level of drifting with the 4WD belt-driven, high-performance Thunder Drift! Quality drifting requires precision driving to consistently challenge the line between control and chaos. A combination of brushed motor and special RC drift tires allow the Thunder Drift to slide effortlessly around corners, while the high-performance belt drive system provides an edge over the typical drifter.”

“Say goodbye to gear slop with the Thunder Drift’s high-performance belt drive system. Fully adjustable for ultra-smooth acceleration, the Thunder Drift is ready to drift circles around the competition. Blue anodized aluminum threaded body oil-filled shocks allow for quick ride height adjustments. Easily direct more weight to a single wheel for precise tuning. Shock dampening can be tuned by adding different weight oils inside the shocks, or by swapping out the pistons. The Thunder Drift’s fully tunable 4-wheel independent suspension allows the driver to adjust toe angle and camber, with the turn of a wrench, to achieve the drifting setup you like.”

Features

• 1/10 scale drift car
• 4 wheel drive
• Belt driven for smooth power transfer
• Independent suspension
• Lightweight plastic chassis
• Aluminum threaded body oil-filled shocks
• Bearings throughout
• Tunable suspension
• Adjustable ride height
• Tunable shocks
• Adjustable camber angle
• Multiple shock mounting positions
• Adjustable belt tension.
• 22T RC540 Brushed electric motor
• Waterproof electronics – 40A ESC
• Responsive steering servo
• 2.4GHz radio

Exceed RC Drift Star 350Z

• Manufacturer: Exceed RC
• Suitable for: 14 years and up
• Configuration: 4WD
• Scale ratio: 1/10th
• Value for money product rating
• Purchase link: Exceed RC Drift Star 350Z

Our comment: The Exceed RC Drift Star 350Z drift car is a replica of the Nissan 350Z, and certainly looks to have been inspired by The Fast and the Furious.

Given that this has very similar specifications to the Redcat Racing EPX Drift Car, but features a brushless motor, making it the superior choice.

There’s no doubt that we prefer the look of the 350Z, so if this brushless drifter ticks the right boxes, then you really can’t go wrong.

Manufacturer description: “The EXCEED RC Electric Drift Star model represents a new generation of 1/10 scale on-road drift cars. This ready-to-run Drift Star car is electric-powered and perfect for indoor or outdoor drifting.”

“Based on our popular and durable on-road electric powered car, this drift version adds specially designed solid compound drift tires pre-mounted on high-performance wheels. Combined with a powerful programmable 45amp brushless ESC and brushless motor, this Driftstar is capable of extreme drift angles and speed.”

Features

• The new KV 3300 Brushless motor provides reliable and consistent power for high-performance drift driving
• The 2.5mm lightweight chassis provides excellent performance and durability
• An excellent differential system design provides quick access to the front or rear differential by removing only a few screws. You can now access the front and rear differential for easy maintenance
• New lightweight suspension arms deliver quick suspension response and reduce the critical sprung weight and overall weight of the car
• High-capacity battery provides long run times
• The high-quality 2.4Ghz transmitter and receiver work together to let you precisely control your car
• Four-wheel drive system
• Excellent front/rear camber and toe-in setup
• Anodized aluminum center long drive shaft
• Stable suspension arms and solid front/rear shock tower
• Oil-filled aluminum capped shocks
• Precise steering fitting delivers a quick response
• Complete ball bearings for a smooth and an efficient drive
• High-performance anti-skid drift tires, chrome-plated spoke rims and pre-mounted drift wheels

GoolRC WLtoys K989 High Speed Race Car RC Drift Car

• Manufacturer: GoolRC
• Suitable for: 14 years and up
• Configuration: 4WD
• Scale ratio: 1/28th
• Value for money product rating
• Purchase link: GoolRC WLtoys K989 High Speed RC Race Car Drift Car

Our comment: If you’re keen on the smaller style cars above, but you fancy something a little more impressive, this Ken Block-style Ford Fiesta replica could well be what you’re looking for.

With a more substantial set-up, this is ideal for the hobbyist with a smaller area to play in.

Although this car is small, it packs a serious punch and is capable of quickly achieving speeds of up to 30km/h.

Another perfect entry-level variation with a decent controller, this is perfect for the younger generation of Ken Block fans that are looking for their first RC drifter.

Manufacturer description: “The racing car is super fast, responsive, full function, and remote controlled. You can freely control the speed and direction, and perform U-shape drifts with ease.”

“Also features steering (go forward and backward, turn left and right). It is delicately manufactured, which is the standard of all hobby class vehicles.”

Features

• 2.4GHz transmitter, you’ll never get any radio interference with this electric car.
• You can enjoy drifting with the on-road anti-skid drift tires.
• High-quality PC material car shell, like a real car, with excellent flexibility, to prevent the impact of rupture.
• The speed reaches up to 30 KM/H, which makes the car race faster than others.
• The rechargeable battery is available for longer playtime, it will last up to 30 minutes.
• Metal chassis, sturdy and durable, protects the car and with longer service life.

JADA Toys Fast & Furious Brian’s Nissan Skyline GT-R (BNR34)

• Manufacturer: JADA Toys
• Suitable for: 6 years and up
• Configuration: 4WD
• Scale ratio: 1/16th
• Value for money product rating
• Purchase link:
  Fast & Furious Brian O’Conner 1/16th Nissan Skyline GT-R (BNR34) |
  Fast & Furious Han Mazda RX7 FD 1/10th scale RC drift car |
  Fast & Furious Brian O’Conner Toyota Supra 1/16th scale RC drift car

Our comment: JADA Toys have launched a range of The Fast and the Furious cars onto the RC market, which is perfect for both young and old fans of the movie.

Fans of Brian O’Conner will undoubtedly relish the opportunity to drift his R34 Skyline GT-R!

Are you stuck for the perfect Christmas or Birthday gift for your Fast and the Furious-crazy friend or relative? Look no further!

The 1/16th scale cars conveniently charge via USB and feature surprisingly impressive battery life.

These reasonably priced RC drift cars are the ultimate gift for any Fast and the Furious fan, and they’ll undoubtedly want to collect the whole range.

As you’ve probably guessed, these cars weren’t created with the serious enthusiast in mind, but they’re perfect for cheap entertainment with all the family.

Manufacturer description: “From the franchise built on speed comes Brian’s highly modified Nissan Skyline GT-R (BNR34) featuring styling cues directly from the movie! Race to the finish as this aggressively styled 1:16 scale RC vehicle features lightweight aero modifications and performance wheels!”

“Help Dom and his crew as they continue their global exploits in the unstoppable franchise built on speed! You call the shots as you lead the team on their crusade with vehicles featuring styling cues directly from the movie! Featuring a turbo Boost feature, This R/C vehicle is ready for action-packed fun!”

Features

• 2.4 GHz – fully functioning R/C
• Turbo Boost feature
• Alkaline Battery included- ready to run
• Exterior styling directly from the Fast and Furious movie
• Officially licensed and authentic movie decoration with themed packaging
• USB charging technology

HPI Racing Micro RS4 Drift Fail Crew Nissan Skyline R34 GT-R

• Manufacturer: HPI Racing
• Suitable for: 14 years and up
• Configuration: 4WD
• Scale ratio: 1/18th
• Model number: HPI120101
• Value for money product rating
• Purchase link: Discontinued

Our comment: Best known for showing off his skills at Europe’s infamous Gatebil festival, the legendary Fail Crew Nissan Skyline R34 GT-R driven by ‘Mad Max’ Tvardovsky is now available in 1/18th scale!

This pre-built, ready-to-run RC drift car from HPI Racing combines its 4WD speed belt drivetrain with a high-powered motor and double-wishbone independent front suspension to provide maximum power and control.

Utilizing HPI’s very-own 180-size motor, with electronic speed control, full-time 4WD belt drive, and a water-resistant servo, this is an excellent setup for those of you who are looking for a smaller beginner drift car.

Despite this being a ready-to-run kit, HPI has ensured that it’s one of the few which provides optional hop-up upgrades, which could be the perfect solution once you’ve got the hang of RC drifting.

Although the more commonly found RC car scale size is 1/10th, this 1/18th scale car could be the perfect answer for those of you that are looking for a smaller alternative.

Manufacturer description: “With its 4WD belt-drive system and hard tires, the Micro RS4 Drift is easy to drift on any smooth surface! Concrete, short carpet, and even tarmac or asphalt are all ideal sliding surfaces that were made for your car – you’ll feel like a real drifter with the Micro RS4!”

“With the full range of HPI custom bodies for your car, it’s easy to turn your Micro RS4 Drift car into any kind of car you can imagine! Do you fancy swapping for a snarling American muscle car, a different drift car, or even a gravel-eating rally car? All these looks and more are waiting for you! To complete the look, you can also have a look at the huge range of available custom wheels and even drift and grip tires from HPI Racing!”

Features

• Pre-Built, Ready to Run 1/18th scale racing car
• Drives just like a larger RC car!
• 4WD for maximum control and speed
• Belt drivetrain for efficient power transfer to front wheels
• Double-wishbone independent front suspension
• Coil-over inboard cantilever front shocks
• Front universal dogbones
• Front and rear differentials for maximum drivetrain efficiency
• Fully equipped with ball bearings for maximum efficiency
• SCM-2S-WP electronic speed control for total control
• 2.4GHz radio system for long-range reception, no frequency crystals needed
• 180-size motor for fast speeds and quick acceleration
• 6v 1200mAh battery for long driving times and plenty of power
• AC wall charger included for extra convenience
• 4 AA batteries included for the transmitter

HPI Racing Micro RS4 Ford Mustang RTR-X

• Manufacturer: HPI Racing
• Suitable for: 16 years and up
• Configuration: 4WD
• Scale ratio: 1/10th
• Model number: 112468
• Value for money product rating
• Purchase link: HPI Racing Micro RS4 Ford Mustang RTR-X

Our comment: The next car in our ready-to-run line-up is based on the awesome 1969 Ford Mustang RTR-X drift car.

Utilizing a one-piece molded chassis, allowed HPI to build a replica that performs like the real car. With the drivetrain tunnel molded down the middle, this provides similar handling characteristics.

They’ve also introduced a low-profile layout to ensure that all the components sit as low as possible in the chassis, allowing for a low center of gravity for optimum handling.

The RTR Mustang is quite possibly the best ready-to-run car on our list and would make the perfect entry-level RC drift car straight out of the box.

HPI has once again produced a variety of hop-up upgrades should you wish to upgrade the car to an intermediate level further down the line.

Manufacturer description: “The newest member of the HPI x Vaughn Gittin Jr. collection is here, and it’s the perfect little brother to the 1/10th scale HPI Mustang RTR-X Sprint 2 Sport and Nitro RS4 3 Evo+! This Micro RS4 is a scaled-down, 1/18th version of Vaughn’s iconic 1969 Ford Mustang RTR-X, which was designed by Vaughn in partnership with the Need For Speed crew! Vaughn is the only one who can drive the real thing, but if you want an RC replica that can fit in the palm of your hand, this is the only version you’ll be able to find!”

“The Micro Mustang RTR-X is perfect for shredding tires inside and outside, with a high-powered motor driving all four wheels and coil-over shocks providing smooth power and excellent control. This Ready To Run Micro RS4 kit features a highly detailed and scale 1969 Ford Mustang RTR-X replica body for an awesome scale look wherever you drive! Just like the 1/10th scale replica, we even include TWO SETS of wheels and tires, one for drifting and one for racing!”

Features

• Pre-Built, Ready to Run 1/18th scale racing car
• Officially licensed replica of Vaughn Gittin Jr.’s 1969 Ford Mustang RTR-X
• Drives just like a larger RC car!
• 4WD for maximum control and speed
• Belt drivetrain for efficient power transfer to front wheels
• Double-wishbone independent front suspension
• Coil-over inboard cantilever front shocks
• Front universal dogbones
• Front and rear differentials for maximum drivetrain efficiency
• Fully equipped with ball bearings for maximum efficiency
• EN-2 electronic speed control for total control
• 2.4GHz radio system for long-range reception, no frequency crystals needed
• 180-size motor for fast speeds and quick acceleration
• 6v 1200mAh battery for long driving times and plenty of power
• AC wall charger included for extra convenience
• 4 AA batteries included for the transmitter

Mostop Mini RC Drift Truck

• Manufacturer: Mostop
• Suitable for: 12 years and up
• Configuration: 4WD
• Scale ratio: 1/16th
• Value for money product rating
• Purchase link: Mostop Mini RC Drift Truck

Our comment: If you’re after a reasonably-priced entry-level drift truck, this 1/16th scale offering from Mostop may be just what you’re looking for.

With top speeds of an impressive 20 mph (30km/h), it’s certainly no slouch for its size and could be capable of causing an upset against some of the more expensive competitors.

One of the unique aspects of this buggy is that it comes with two sets of tires, making it ideal for using on-road or off-road, making it one of the most exciting prospects for those who enjoy drifting on varied terrains.

Another unique feature is the angel-eye headlamps, which have three lighting modes, and you can switch them on or off if you wish to conserve your battery life.

The 2.4GHz remote has a range of 150ft, and you can run several of these cars alongside your friends without the risk of interference.

The 1200mAh rechargeable battery enables a 20-25 minute racing time following around 3-4 hours of charging.

Although it won’t compete with the most expensive offerings on the market, this drift buggy has plenty of unique features which make it a perfect prospect for an entry-level RC drift car for a young enthusiast.

Manufacturer description: “Equipped with a double set of tires, 4 rubber racing tires and 4 smooth drift tires, you can experience drifting and racing once you own one of this drift racing car.”

“Designed with 4WD powerful motors, which provide this RC drift car with strong power and driving force to make it run fast, it’s capable of reaching speeds of up to 30+KM/H (20MPH).”

Features

• High-Speed Drifting Car – Remote control drift car can go forward, backward, turn left and right, brake, and other full-scale synchronous control functions. The speed can reach up to 30 km/H, which provides you with a faster high-speed racing experience.
• 2.4G Remote Control – 2.4 GHz high frequency assures a longer controlling distance of at least 150 feet, it can support multiplayer playing the RC cars together at the same time without interference. Automatically pairing and stable signal.
• Stable & Safe Design – Designed with great stability during racing due to the independent suspension and ESP Electronic Stability System. Overcharge and over-current protection are adopted to ensure security for playing and charging.
• Full-Scale Drift Truck – There is a proportional throttle and steering control function in the sensitive remote control system, players have conditions to control the speeds and fine-tune direction by the controller.
• Battery Life – Comes with a 7.4V 1200mAh lithium battery, 3-4 hour charging time to support 20-25 minute playing. Equipped with 2 sets of tires for replacement. 3 levels of adjustable headlamps make it cool and realistic.

RC drift car kits

Here is our selection of RC drift car kits:

HPI RS4 Sport 3 4WD RC Drift Car Kit

• Manufacturer: HPI
• Suitable for: 14 years and up
• Configuration: 4WD
• Scale ratio: 1/10th
• Value for money product rating
• Purchase link: HPI Sport 3 James Deane Nissan S15 |
  HPI Sport 3 Drift VGJR “Fun Haver” Ford Mustang |
  HPI RS4 Sport 3 Dai Yoshihara Subaru BRZ |
  HPI Sport 3 Drift BMW E30 Driftworks *NEW RELEASE 2023*

Our comment: Although the MST RMX 2.5 is the ultimate entry-level kit, the HPI Sport 3 drift offers a great, affordable, entry-level alternative.

Having stood the test of time, the HPI Sport 3 doesn’t feature the latest, cutting-edge technology. Instead, you get a highly-regarded platform with incredible durability that has stood the test of time.

Having released the Driftworks E30 for their 2023 update, some fantastic Formula D alternatives exist, such as Dai Yoshihara’s Subaru BRZ and Vaughn Gittin Jr’s “Fun Haver” Mustang.

Our favorite is the Worthouse S15, which comes with interchangeable vinyl, allowing you to drift as three-time FD Champion James Deane or his teammate, Piotr Wiecek!

For someone not looking to spend huge bucks on their RC drift car immediately, this kit presents a perfect opportunity for beginners looking for some simple fun without breaking the bank.

Manufacturer description: “Under the hood, this 1/10th scale Nissan is built on the popular HPI RS4 Sport 3 chassis. With full-time shaft-driven 4WD, a fully sealed drivetrain, waterproof 2.4 GHz electronics/radio gear, fully independent double wishbone suspension and adjustable oil filled shocks, you’ll be ready to shred in any condition.”

“To complete the package, this kit allows you to replicate both cars on the Worthouse drift team. Alternate stickers are included in every kit to allow you to turn your RS4 Sport 3 into a replica of James’ teammate, Piotr Wiecek!”

Features

• One-Piece Molded Chassis
• Low Profile Layout Design
• Brushless Capable Drivetrain
• Full-Time 4WD
• Sealed Center Driveshaft
• Easy Access Differentials
• 4-Gear Metal Differentials
• Adjustable Double-Wishbone Suspension
• Threaded Oil-Filled Shocks
• Double Bellcrank Steering
• Aluminum Motor Mount

Tamiya TT-02D – Various Models

• Manufacturer: Tamiya
• Suitable for: 14 years and up
• Configuration: 4WD
• Scale ratio: 1/10th
• Value for money product rating
• Purchase link:
  Tamiya TT-02D – Nismo COPPERMIX Nissan Silvia S15 |
  Tamiya TT-02D – Nissan Skyline R32 GT-R |
  Tamiya TT-02D – Nissan Skyline R33 GT-R |
  Tamiya TT-02D – Nissan Skyline R34 GT-R Z-Tune |
  Tamiya TT-02D – Nissan R35 GT-R |
  Tamiya TT-02D – Toyota Supra |
  Tamiya TT-02D – Mazda RX-7 FD |
  Tamiya TT-02D – Honda Civic SiR EG6

Our comment: Tamiya is one of the most reputable brands in the RC drift scene, and their TT-02D Drift Spec chassis is a testament to the continued fantastic quality that they’ve been launching throughout the years.

If you’re not shy when it comes to building your RC drift car, then the entry-level TT-02D kit could well be the perfect answer to your needs.

As the 24mm wide drift-spec tires provide the perfect traction, the CVA shock units combined with the 4-wheel double wishbone suspension offer the ultimate handling for drifting.

With a full ball-bearing setup, an aluminium motor heat sink, and a tuned sports motor as standard, this is the perfect introduction to your RC drift career.

As you’ve probably guessed, there’s a vast range of hop-up upgrade modifications on the market to build the ultimate ride and all the spares you could ever need if you were to crash a little too hard.

It’s no coincidence that so many enthusiasts start with the TT-02D, as it’s the perfect entry-level kit, and Tamiya provides a massive range of body shells.

Although several kits are available, they are all the same parts with different body shells, so it’s entirely your decision as to which shell is best for you.

The only downside with the TT-02D over the ready-to-run kits is that you’ll need to factor in the additional costs of buying the electronics, such as a radio, receiver, ESC, steering servo, battery, and charger.

The shells also arrive as clear plastic, which allows you to fully customize and choose any colors or stickers that you fancy.

Don’t let the additional expenses put you off this fantastic kit, though, as the TT-02D is worth every cent once you’ve got everything up and running!

Manufacturer description: “The TT-02 chassis is Tamiya’s latest entry-level 4WD full independent suspension assembly kit that offers ease of assembly and easy maintenance.”

“The TT-02D is the Drift Spec variant that includes special parts to make it a fun-to-drive drifting machine.”

Features

• Scale: 1/10
• Construction type: assembly kit
• Terrain use: on-road
• Drivetrain: 4WD
• Drive type: shaft
• Drive line: dog bone
• Differential type: gear
• Suspension: fully independent double wishbone
• Steering mechanism: bell-crank
• Shock damper: oil-filled damper
• Shock damper material: plastic
• Chassis material: plastic
• Bearings: shielded ball bearing
• Adjustable camber: fixed
• Adjustable toe angles: front only
• Adjustable ground clearance: yes
• Adjustable gear ratio: yes
• Adjustable wheelbase: yes
• Adjustable track width: yes
• Adjustable shock angle: yes

MST RMX 2.0 RWD RC Drift Car Kit

• Manufacturer: MST
• Suitable for: 14 years and up
• Configuration: RWD
• Scale ratio: 1/10th
• Value for money product rating
• Purchase link: Discontinued online

Our comment: For many, the MST RMX 2.0 RTR above will be the ideal choice for those getting started in RC drifting or looking for the most convenient and refined option straight out of the box.

However, this kit provides the perfect opportunity for those looking to create a custom RC drift car build with their own choice of electronics.

Utilizing the latest technology, we feel that the RMX 2.0, which hit the market in November 2021, provides the ultimate value for money against some of its more expensive, outdated rivals.

Whether you’re looking to buy a standalone chassis or take advantage of the discounted shells with the package deals, the RMX 2.0 has repeatedly proven an incredible platform for sliding sideways.

Although the RMX 2.0 can throw down huge, consistent angles right out of the box, it also provides two motor install locations and two servo install locations if you wish to adjust the weight distribution.

Although the kit comes in at a fantastic price, remember that you will also need to budget for the additional electronics. Once you’ve calculated this, we recommend deciding whether this or the RTR kit will better suit your needs.

Manufacturer description: “The ingenious design allows for higher drift speeds and ensures a very simple but efficient steering behavior. The chassis is extremely stiff and nearly unbreakable. The structure of the top deck with its struts ensures very good cooling of the electronic components. Extremely large and variable steering deflections by Ackermann control increase handling.”

“The motor and the steering servo can be installed in 2 different positions to adjust the center of gravity according to your needs. The RMX S is the ideal drifter for beginners and due to its variable design also suitable for professionals.”

Features

• Two motor install options – upper or lower gravity
• Two servo install options – vertical or lateral
• Plastic high-rigidity construction
• Unique front suspension system for great steering
• The adjustable steering system with two-step Ackermann changes
• 6 degrees KPI steering upright, and -0.5 trailing axle design
• The inside rod fulcrum mount at the front upper arm features 10-step height adjustment and both side positions
• Fully-sealed dustproof bevel gear box system
• Standard ball differential
• 5 changeable second-deceleration-ratio gear sets of 1.89-3.82 (standard 3.08)
• The fulcrum at the rear suspension upper rod is 5-step adjustable on both sides. The outer fulcrum is 4-step adjustable on both sides
• Steel CVD axle of the rear transmission system
• Suitable for long and short battery
• Full great smooth metal ball connectors
• Standard realistic caliper and disc shape brake set

RC drift car chassis

Here is our selection of RC drift car chassis:

Usukani D3T 1/8 RC Drift Tricycle Chassis Kit

• Manufacturer: Usukani
• Suitable for: 14 years and up
• Configuration: RWD
• Scale ratio: 1/8th
• Value for money product rating
• Purchase link: Usukani D3T 1/8 RC Drift Tricycle Kit (Tukcica Body) |
  Usukani D3T 1/8 RC Drift Tricycle Kit (Bajcica Body)

Our comment: If you’re looking for a unique RC drift car to stand out at events, or to make the perfect gift for a loved one, look no further than the epic Usuakni D3T drift trike!

Your rival competitors will be in awe as you throw down some epic lines with these well-refined three-wheelers!

Although they won’t be up to the standard of the premium offerings that companies such as Yokomo have to offer, you’ll undoubtedly walk away from every event with the crowd-pleaser award!

Manufacturer description: “The Usukani D3T 1/8 RC Drift Tricycle Chassis Kit is a special version of the TUKCICA kit with an updated BAJCICA body set included. High-quality components and attention to design make this 1/8th scale trike an exciting and responsive product.”

“The unique three-wheeled drifting platform includes two bodies for optional appearances and slick drifting style. Decide between either the original TUKCICA body shown in the video below or the alternate BAJCICA body with the covered and enclosed tricycle bed. Pick colors, paint the bodies and get drifting in style!”

Features

• Three wheels (RWD)
• Three-gear transmission seal gear case
• Rear wheel independent suspension
• Front fork two-spring shock
• Rear wheel Damping Shock Absorber
• Adjustable Front Fork angle System
• Dual spring steering buffer tie rod+
• Rims
• Ultrathin drift tries (PP/HDPE)
• Full ball bearing
• High tenacity and impact resistance Nylon
• Metal motor mount
• Metal pinion gear (Gear ratio: approx 10.77)
• Metal Spur Gear Adapter
• Stainless steel Universal Bone
• Transparent PC bodyshell

Needed to complete

It’s worth remembering that this kit doesn’t come with the following parts as default, which will need to be purchased separately, but this allows you to choose the best products for your needs:

• Transmitter
• Receiver
• Low height servo
• Gyro
• ESC
• Type 540 motor
• 7.4V 2S short lipo battery

Tamiya TB-03 VDS Drift Spec Chassis

• Manufacturer: Tamiya
• Suitable for: 14 years and up
• Configuration: 4WD
• Scale ratio: 1/10th
• Value for money product rating
• Purchase link: Tamiya TB-03 VDS Drift Spec Chassis

Our comment: If you’re not entirely new to RC drifting, and you don’t mind splashing a little extra cash for the ultimate off-the-shelf package, then Tamiya’s TB-03 VDS drift spec chassis is the perfect choice for you!

With the knowledge gained from their TA-05 VDF, Tamiya developed this top-spec chassis, which is perfectly tweaked for the ultimate drifting performance.

With a 2.5mm thick carbon lower deck, aluminum gearbox braces for the front and rear gearboxes, and an aluminum center brace to provide rigidity, the TB-03 was undoubtedly built with performance and durability in mind.

As far as quality and performance go, you’re going to struggle to find a better off-the-shelf kit than the TB-03, even if it is a little expensive and still requires a body shell, motor, and electronics to be purchased separately.

If you’re just getting started with drifting and this is a temptation, then we’d also recommend taking a look at Tamiya’s TT-02D kit above.

Manufacturer description: “Based on the shaft-driven TB-03 chassis, this drift-spec chassis incorporates a 2.5mm thick carbon lower deck, aluminum gearbox braces to hold front/rear gearboxes, and a distinctive aluminum center brace to provide rigidity toward chassis pitch.”

“The well-balanced layout has the two-piece propeller shaft along the center of the chassis with the battery pack and R/C unit positioned at chassis sides. The chassis also comes equipped with high-spec parts such as knuckle extensions, parallel steering link, and rear direct coupling to offer an exciting drift experience.”

Features

• Equipped with the TB-03’s front and rear gearboxes
• 2.5mm thick carbon fiber lower deck
• Aluminum center F/R gearbox braces which offer superior chassis strength
• The chassis layout is optimized for drifting and features a 2-piece propeller shaft along the center line of the chassis with the battery pack, motor, and R/C radio gear positioned on either side of the car
• 4-wheel double wishbone suspension is equipped with short reversible suspension arms as seen on the TB-03, TA-05 Version 2, and TRF 416,417
• TRF (Tamiya Racing Factory) Aluminum threaded shock body and Teflon piston dampers included
• A parallel geometry steering system with both left and right symmetrical steering angles offers excellent control and easier counter-steering maneuvers
• Front ball diff and rear direct coupling (spool)
• 2-piece universal propeller shaft
• Aluminum turnbuckle shafts
• Front and Rear universal shafts
• Aluminum hex wheel hubs
• Hi-torque servo saver included
• Steel diff joints for improved wear and durability

Hobbypower Alloy & Carbon RWD Drift Racing Chassis

• Manufacturer: Hobbypower
• Suitable for: 14 years and up
• Configuration: RWD
• Scale ratio: 1/10th
• Value for money product rating
• Purchase link: Hobbypower Alloy & Carbon RWD Drift Racing Chassis

Our comment: If you’re keen to buy a chassis setup, but haven’t got the money to splash out on the upper-price-bracket Tamiya TB-03 above, then fear not, as Hobbypower has the ultimate alternative for those of you looking for a fantastic chassis on a budget.

This chassis is made with premium alloy and carbon and represents incredible value for money.

Unlike the other kits in our guide, this is a rear-wheel-drive setup with the weight centered at the back, and an ultra-wide-angle steering system for maximum steering lock capabilities.

You’ll struggle to get more for your money than this RWD belt-driven car, but you will still need to consider the costs of electronics and the body shell(s).

For beginners on a budget that are keen to learn exactly how to build an RC car from the ground up, you aren’t going to get better value for money than this chassis.

Manufacturer description: “This is a Rear-wheel drive (RWD)1:10 drift kit which is very suitable for drifting beginners.”

“The kit weight centered at the back and it already comes with the ultra wide angle steering system making the beginner easier to handle and enjoy the drifting experience.”

Features

• Main Chassis, Upper Deck, Front, and Rear Shock Towers
• 2-Belt Drive System
• KIT-D4AWD Internal Gear Ratio is 1.47
• Ultra Wide Angle Universal Driveshafts (65 degrees)
• Height. Adjustable. Dampers & Full Bearing
• Wide Double-Wishbone Suspension Design
• 15 Degrees Front Caster Angle
• Adjustable Y Shaped Front Upper Suspension Arms
• Weight: 800g

Needed to complete

It’s worth remembering that this kit doesn’t come with the following parts, which will need to be purchased separately, but this allows you to choose the best products for your needs:

• 1/10 Drift Body & Paint
• Motor & ESC
• 2 Channel Radio System (minimum)
• Steering Servo
• Shorty LiPo Battery & Charger

MST FMX 2.0 “LCG” RWD RC Electric Drift Car Kit

• Manufacturer: MST
• Suitable for: 14 years and up
• Configuration: RWD
• Scale ratio: 1/10th
• Value for money product rating
• Purchase link: MST FMX 2.0 “LCG” RWD Electric Drift Car Kit

Our comment: For intermediate/advanced drifters with a bigger budget, this could be the perfect opportunity to land yourself an epic carbon fiber chassis.

An LCG (low center of gravity) aluminum motor mount is positioned 5mm lower than the previous generation, which provides increased stability and control.

The upper deck is made from carbon fiber, which looks incredible and makes it strong and lightweight.

This is an excellent choice for beginners to experienced RC enthusiasts looking for a reasonably-priced carbon fiber drift chassis with a lower-midrange price tag.

Manufacturer description: “The MST FMX 2.0 “LCG” 1/10 RWD Electric Drift Car Kit is a mid-motor, rear-wheel drive kit designed with the enthusiast in mind. Featuring high-quality carbon fiber and molded composite parts, super smooth shocks, and a plethora of tuning settings available right out of the box, this kit delivers great steering angles in a mid-motor platform that is great for both beginners and experienced enthusiasts alike.”

“This redesigned LCG aluminum motor mount lowers the center of gravity of the motor by up to 5mm than the last generation, which further increases the stability and control. The freshly designed carbon upper deck is separated from the motor mount, increasing the torsion of the car body, reducing the height of the upper deck, and more dynamic and streamlined visual looks.”

Features

• Middle motor mounts and centralized configurations
• Carbon fiber chassis with dual vertical carbon fiber upper deck
• A redesigned great front suspension system
• Adjustable Ackerman angle variation in 2 sections of the steering system
• Front steering wheel base KPI at 6 degrees. – 0.5 towing distance of axle
• Redesigned front upper arm inside seat supports 10-steps bi-side adjustments
• Full dust-proof rear gearbox with the bevel gear shaft drive
• Standard ball differential
• A variable second reduction ratio of the rear axle in a total of 6 variable range of 1.78-3.82 (standard 3.82)
• Updated carbon upper deck
• Standard equipped with a realistic car brake and caliper set

Needed to complete

It’s worth remembering that this kit doesn’t come with the following parts, which will need to be purchased separately, but this allows you to choose the best products for your needs:

• 1/10 Drift Body & Paint
• Motor & ESC
• 2 Channel Radio System (minimum)
• Steering Servo
• Shorty LiPo Battery & Charger
• Wheels & Tires

MST FXX 2.0 S RWD Electric RC Drift Car Kit

• Manufacturer: MST
• Suitable for: 14 years and up
• Configuration: RWD
• Scale ratio: 1/10th
• Value for money product rating
• Purchase link:
  MST FXX 2.0 S 1/10 RWD Drift Kit w/Clear BMW E92 Body |
  MST FXX 2.0 S 1/10 RWD Drift Kit w/Clear Vertex Toyota Soarer JZ3 Body |
  MST FXX 2.0 S 1/10 RWD Drift Kit w/Clear Lamborghini Gallardo LP56 |
  MST FXX 2.0 S 1/10 RWD Electric Drift Kit (No Body)

Our comment: Although the FXX 2.0 comes in at a higher price than the RMX 2.0, it’s likely to make for a more suitable setup for intermediate/advanced drifters looking to take their skills to the next level.

It may not have fancy carbon fiber parts, which admittedly leaves it more prone to damage, but if you’re drifting in an open space with few solid obstacles, that shouldn’t be too much of a concern.

This kit is also available without a bodyshell, but for an additional twenty bucks, we think it’s well worth going with one of the body shell kits, even if you only intend to use it as a spare, or perhaps for show.

Manufacturer description: “The MST FXX 2.0 S 1/10 RWD Electric Drift Car Kit combines the centralized chassis configuration of the FXX 2.0 KMW, with a redesigned motor forward transmission configuration and front suspension system to create an amazingly progressive driving experience.”

“This rear-wheel drive-specific design is complimented by the unique MB rear suspension system that provides increased rear geometry adjustments, allowing the suspension to better handle steep drift angles with an optimized secondary reduction ratio for improved throttle control. All of these features combined create a high-performance chassis that provides handling characteristics more like that of a 1:1 drift car.”

Features

• The front motor configuration creates a feel similar to a real drift car, for a more realistic driving experience
• CNC machined chassis with the readjusted center of gravity provides better weight distribution
• Updated motor mount, suspension, and ATK system
• The integrated steering system with redesigned aluminum alloy steering connection plate updates the geometry settings to create steep front wheel steering angles, allowing for greater drift angles
• Equipped with MB rear suspension system for increased adjustments and tuning possibilities
• Steel CVD axle for the rear transmission system
• Standard realistic caliper and disc brake set
• Full ball bearings
• Hydraulic Dampers

Needed to complete

It’s worth remembering that this kit doesn’t come with the following parts, which will need to be purchased separately, but this allows you to choose the best products for your needs:

• 1/10 Drift Body & Paint
• Motor & ESC
• 2 Channel Radio System (minimum)
• Steering Servo
• Shorty LiPo Battery & Charger
• Wheels & Tires

Yokomo YD-2E RWD RC Drift Car Kit

• Manufacturer: Yokomo
• Suitable for: 14 years and up
• Configuration: RWD
• Scale ratio: 1/10th
• Value for money product rating
• Purchase link: Yokomo YD-2E RWD Drift Car Kit (Plastic Chassis) |
  Yokomo YD-2E PLUS RWD Drift Car Kit (Graphite Chassis)

Our comment: Yokomo is arguably the highest-regarded company in the RC drift car market, but not all their products are eye-wateringly expensive!

The entry-level YD-2E chassis comes with a fantastic price tag with the plastic chassis version for those looking to get started.

However, if you’re feeling fancy, then there’s also the graphite ‘PLUS’ model alternative to choose from, which comes from the high-end ‘E’ series model.

Manufacturer description: “The Yokomo YD-2E 2WD RWD Drift Car Kit is helping to drive the RWD trend in the drift world. Featuring updated “short type” Front Suspension Arms to optimize the Ackermann setting and prevent interference with the wheels, these arms offer increased steering angle and improved overall performance. The chassis tub allows the use of standard and shorty type LiPo batteries, as well as 6-cell nickel packs.”

“The kit includes LS Rear Lower Suspension Arms as standard for more down stroke and increased grip in order to achieve both stability and speed at the same time. A 4-gear transmission positions the motor horizontally and helps to prevent torque twists. Plus, the design helps to encourage power traction, providing increased stability and acceleration during corner exit.”

Features

• 4 Gear rear transmission
• Closed gearbox
• Four-wheel independent double wishbone suspension
• Front short suspension arm
• High-performance vehicle height adjustable oil damper
• Resin-made one-piece main chassis
• Aluminum motor mounting plate
• RWD exclusive high-angle steering system
• 49mm bone rear universal shaft
• LS Rear lower suspension arm
• Large Rear Diffuser

Needed to complete

It’s worth remembering that this kit doesn’t come with the following parts, which will need to be purchased separately, but this allows you to choose the best products for your needs:

• 1/10 Drift Body & Paint
• 2-Channel radio system
• Electronic Speed Control
• 540 Motor
• Steering Servo
• 7.4V LiPo battery pack
• Compatible battery charger
• Drift car tires & Wheels
• Steering Gyro

Yokomo YD-2R Plus RWD RC Drift Car Kit

• Manufacturer: Yokomo
• Suitable for: 14 years and up
• Configuration: RWD
• Scale ratio: 1/10th
• Value for money product rating
• Purchase link: Yokomo YD-2R Plus 1/10 RWD Drift Car Kit

Our comment: The YD-2R Plus is the mid-range offering from Yokomo, which features a matte graphite double-deck chassis and a six-stage adjustable rear-mounted motor for superior weight balance.

With this layout, you’ll have additional grip in the rear, thanks to the weight being placed on the back. Combined with the aluminium shocks and towers, you’ll achieve maximum traction, which is perfect if you often drift in low-grip areas.

If you’re looking for a competitive car without having to go into the premium price bracket, the YD-2R plus is likely to offer the perfect solution.

Manufacturer description: “The Yokomo YD-2R Plus 1/10 2WD RWD Drift Car Kit was created to deliver the rear traction control needed on low-grip tracks found in drifting circles. Yokomo achieves superior rear traction with an updated rear-motor design, a layout that can maximize traction without changing the total weight of the kit.”

“In this layout, the motor is mounted on the rear overhang to distribute the load directly to rear tires, exactly where you want it on low-grip drifting tracks. Acceleration will apply the maximum load to the contact surface of the rear tires, giving them the bite they need to pull out of turns and maneuver with agility. This is a high-spec machine equipped with the popular graphite double-deck chassis, aluminum SLF oil shock, aluminum front, and rear shock towers, and much more.”

Features

• Rear motor and rear two-wheel drive
• Redesigned Integrated upper deck
• Matte graphite double-deck Chassis
• 6-stage adjustable aluminum motor mount
• 4-wheel independent double wishbone suspension
• 3 gears Rear Transmission
• Updated Sealed gearbox
• Aluminum front /rear shock tower
• Narrow scrub steering block
• Straight /short Li-po Battery compatible

Needed to complete

It’s worth remembering that this kit doesn’t come with the following parts, which will need to be purchased separately, but this allows you to choose the best products for your needs:

• 1/10 Drift Body & Paint
• 2-Channel radio system
• Electronic Speed Control
• 540 Motor
• Steering Servo
• Battery (Li-po 2-cell, shorty type)
• Compatible battery charger
• Drift car tires & Wheels

Yokomo YD-2ZX 1/10 RWD Competition RC Drift Car Kit

• Manufacturer: Yokomo
• Suitable for: 14 years and up
• Configuration: RWD
• Scale ratio: 1/10th
• Value for money product rating
• Purchase link: Discontinued online

Our comment: If you’re planning to go down the competitive route, and you’ll settle for nothing less than the best, the YD-2ZX is the ultimate premium pick.

Available in black, red, or purple, the YD-2ZX has been specifically designed with competition in mind and offers the ultimate platform to secure a spot on the podium without needing to upgrade various components.

Yokomo is the master of RC car design, and we’re confident that this flagship graphite offering will not disappoint.

Manufacturer description: “The Yokomo YD-2ZX 1/10 2WD RWD Competition Drift Car Kit has been designed to become the top model RWD drift car. Built for performance this drift chassis gives the user many features to provide a smooth and stylish experience. With the Yokomo YD-2ZX, you can drift like there’s no tomorrow.”

“This drift car features a high traction graphite chassis and double deck design. Yokomo changed the way the steering servo attaches to the chassis side, making the upper deck more flexible. This allows for a smoother steering feel without hindering the flex of the chassis. The transmission is equipped with a unique motor mount allowing for a higher motor mount and better heat dissipation. The battery can be fully moved within the chassis without hindering kinetic performance. The front bulkhead, suspension mount, shock tower, and big bore shock are made from machined aluminum for high rigidity and lower weight. These features come together to deliver a highly competitive chassis.”

Features

• Redesigned graphite main chassis & upper deck
• Vibrant Purple Anodized aluminum parts
• Graphite front bumper
• Slide rack steering system
• Aluminum special motor mount
• Aluminum shock towers
• Aluminum suspension mounts
• Aluminum lower suspension arm adapter
• Aluminum integrated front bulkhead
• Aluminum SLF Big Bore Shock
• Aluminum Gear Diff Joint
• Aluminum Hexagon Hub
• Graphite front bumper/brace
• Aluminum 3mm steering stopper
• Front/rear short suspension arms

Needed to complete

It’s worth remembering that this kit doesn’t come with the following parts, which will need to be purchased separately, but this allows you to choose the best products for your needs:

• 2-Channel radio system
• Electronic Speed Control
• 540 Motor
• Standard-size steering servo
• 7.4V LiPo “Shorty” or Stick LiPo battery pack
• LiPo-compatible battery charger
• Drift car tires & Wheels
• 200mm TC or Drift body
• Polycarbonate paint for the body

Thank you for reading our RC drift cars guide

If you enjoyed this article, then please share it with the sharing buttons at the side and the bottom of your screen.

Check out our selection of the best-rated micro RC cars and RC monster trucks on the market!

RC drift cars FAQ

What’s the best RC drift car kit?

Our RC drift car kit choice is the MST RMX 2.0, providing fantastic value for money with a freshly-improved chassis, which has proven to be a hit among RC drifters.

What are the best RC drift cars?

There are three types of RC drift cars, so here are our recommendations depending on what you’re looking for: Our RTR (ready-to-run) choice is the HSP FlyingFish, and our RC drift car kit preference is the MST RMX 2.0 RWD. For those looking to build their RC drift cars from scratch, the Hobbypower RWD drift chassis offers fantastic value for money.

What’s the best 1/10 RC drift car?

Our favorite 1/10 RC drift car kit is the MST RMX 2.0, and the HSP FlyingFish is our top pick for those looking for a ready-to-run RC drift car. These picks offer exceptional value for money for those looking to get started with RC drifting.

Information and photography credits

We thank the following entities for the use of their information and photography in this article:

• Amazon
• AMain Hobbies
• eBay

The post Best RC Drift Cars Guide For 2024 first appeared on Drifted.com.

Here, you can click on a particular section within this article, otherwise, scroll down as we cover everything you need to know about Honda’s K24 engine.

• Which Cars Have the Honda K24 Engine?
• K24 Engine Specifications
• Honda K24 Tuning
• K24 Engine Swaps
• Honda K24 Forced Induction
• K24 Reliability & Common Issues
• Conclusion

Introduction to the Honda K24

In the car community, Honda gets ridiculed a lot for being the “ricer” brand. Yet, we can’t ignore the impact its cars have had in the automotive landscape. Raise your hands if you remember the very first scene from The Fast And The Furious.

Since the Honda fanboys came out in force and criticized the lack of Honda-related content at Drifted, we’ve opted for creating some in-depth guides to keep them happy.

Let’s face it. There’s nothing more challenging to deal with than an angry Honda fanboy. (Just kidding!)

For those of you that are wondering why we’ve decided to check out the Honda K24 engine, it’s because Honda’s legendary K-series engines are immensely underrated. That’s right, we said it.

While you’re huffing and puffing about FWD rice-boxes, we highly recommend that you head over to our previous guide for the K24’s younger brother, the Honda K20.

*WARNING* The K20 guide contains RX7 FD’s with Honda powerplants! Too late? Whoops.

The Beauty of the K24

Part of the beauty of Honda’s K-series is the convenience when it comes to swapping it into some of the least likely chassis imaginable.

We’d forgive you for purely thinking along the lines of cheap, FWD cars when it comes to the K-series.

However, you may well be surprised to hear that it’s not actually that challenging to swap the K24 into just about any chassis, even when it comes to some of the rarer mid-engined cars.

V8 swaps have become increasingly common throughout motorsport, mostly thanks to their (mainly) reasonable price tags alongside convenience and ease of sourcing when it comes to parts and engines.

It also, of course, falls to their impressive reliability, power potential, and ability to handle forced induction efficiently.

But, what if we told you that the Honda K24 also ticks all of these boxes?

We’re not the only one that thinks this, either, and for that reason, Speed Academy have put them head-to-head in this video:

Better Than an LS Swap?

There’s a wide range of K24 engines located under the hoods of some of the most popular cars on the market, such as Honda Accord’s and CR-V’s, and this makes them extremely convenient and cheap to source.

They’re also impressive when it comes to off-the-shelf upgrades and aftermarket support.

So, if you’re looking for extremely high power potential, a K-series swap could well begin to make a lot of sense.

As the popularity of LS swaps increases, the K-series could emerge as the superior purchase over time, with so many drifters opting for the typical V8 route.

With an ever-increasing off-the-shelf aftermarket mounting and wiring options available for the K-series, it’s undoubtedly emerging as an underdog in the engine-swap world.

So, whether you’re looking for a cheap and reliable daily driver swap, or a fully boosted race setup that’ll be able to help you smash ¼ mile records, the K24 certainly needs to be a contender to consider.

Make sure you keep your eyes peeled later on in this guide, as we’ll unveil some of the unlikely K24 swaps that we’ve come across.

A Legendary Lineage

Honda’s K24 series has birthed several of the immensely popular K-series engines over the years, and there have been more updates and variations than most enthusiasts realize.

After its initial launch in 2001, the 2.4-liter powerplant debuted in the Honda CR-V with the original K24A1 variation.

Production continues to the present day with the K24Y and K24Z variants, but they’re probably not what you’re looking for, as we’ll explain later.

The K24’s design was remarkably similar to its predecessor, the 2-liter K20.

Still, it featured some additional bonuses alongside the more significant displacement, such as an enlarged bore and stroke, friction-reducing technology, and electronically controlled ignition timing.

We’ll venture a little deeper into what changed between the many variations of the engine later in our guide.

You can either use the navigation at the top of the article to go to a specific section or continue scrolling down if you’re interested to know everything there is to know about Honda’s potent K24 engine.

Which Cars Have the Honda K24 Engine?

There have been many changes made to the K24 engine over its lifetime, and we highly recommend reading on if you’re considering which variations are going to be best for your needs, particularly if you’re looking to tap into their tuning potential.

Here is a list of cars that are powered by some form of the ever-popular Honda K24 engine series.

K24A1

2002-2009 Honda CR-V

K24A2

2002-08 Honda Accord Type-S (Japan)
2003-08 Honda Odyssey Absolute
2004-08 Acura TSX

K24A3

2003-07 Honda Accord (Japan/Europe)
2003-07 Honda Accord Euro (Australia/New Zealand)

K24A4

2003-05 Honda Accord (U.S.)
2003-08 Honda Odyssey
2003-06 Honda Element

K24A8

2006-07 Honda Accord (U.S.)
2007-11 Honda Element
2008-14 Honda Odyssey (Japan)

K24W (Earth Dreams)

2013-17 Honda Accord (U.S.)
2015-19 Honda CR-V (U.S.)

K24W4

2013-present Honda Accord (Thailand/Malaysia)
2014-present Honda Odyssey (Australia)

K24V5

2017-present Honda CR-V (Thailand)

K24V7

2016-present Acura ILX

K24W7

2015-20 Acura TLX

K24Y1

2012-16 Honda CR-V (Thailand)

K24Y2

2012-15 Honda Crosstour

K24Z1

2007-09 Honda CR-V (RE3, RE4)

K24Z2

2008-12 Honda Accord LX/LX-P (U.S.)
2016-present Proton Perdana

K24Z3

2008-12 Honda Accord LX-S/EX/EX-L (U.S.)
2009-14 Acura TSX
2008-15 Honda Accord (CP2, CS1)

K24Z4

2008-12 Honda CR-V (RE7)

K24Z5

2010-15 Honda Spirior

K24Z6

2010-11 Honda CR-V (U.S.)

2012-14 Honda CR-V (U.S.)

K24Z7

2012-15 Honda Civic Si
2013-15 Acura ILX

Honda K24 Engine Specifications

Since there are so many engines within the K24 family, we’ll give you a quick rundown of their specifications. This will help you choose the best K-Series engine for your specific needs – be it for a drift car, a show car, or an autocross champ.

In addition, we’re going to break down the main positives and negatives of their commonly-found engines too. So, let’s get started!

K24A1

The K24A1 was the first engine that Honda released within the K24 range, which featured in the 2002-09 Honda CR-V’s, and came with 160 hp and 162 lb-ft torque.

The A1 was where it all began, and it was a very similar engine to the B-series engine, with impressive low-end torque production.

Although it features impressive performance, it has a compression ratio of 9.6:1. The K24 features more durable connecting rods and superior counter-weighted crankshafts over its predecessor, the 2.0-liter K20.

When combined with the more significant displacement and with the addition of a composite two-stage intake manifold, this allowed for superior power and torque.

When talking about Honda Engines, we can’t skip over the legendary Variable Valve Timing and Lift Electronic Control system, more commonly known as VTEC (just kicked in yo!). Check out the video below to learn more about this system.

Sadly for K24A1 owners, it has no VTEC mechanism on the exhaust cam, and mostly relies on twelve valves before 2,200rpm, with the other four coming into action beyond.

The K24A1 has become one of the most popular choices for engine swaps and conversions.

Thanks to similarities between the A1 and A2, you can straight-swap the A2’s oil pump, which you’re not able to do on other K-series engines.

The K24A1 has one of the best cylinder heads, which is similar to the lucrative Type-S head, and takes kindly to being ported, which allows for an impressive amount of airflow.

Alternatively, if you’re looking for an easy swap, then the Type-S head itself is also an option.

If you’re looking for the best out-of-the-box solution from the K24, then let us introduce you to the K24A2.

K24A2

The K24A2 typically earns the title of the most impressive K24 engine out of the factory, but it’s also gained a pretty high price tag because of this, which makes other variations more tempting if you’re not shy when it comes to tuning.

Featured in the Acura TSX, alongside the Honda Oddessey and the JDM Accord Type-S, the K24A2 was capable of achieving between 197-205hp and between 164-171 lb/ft torque.

This engine was known as the K24A3 in the European and Australian markets.

For the A2, Honda opted for a significantly updated bottom-end, and the compression ratio rose to 10.5:1.

Unlike the K24A1, this time, they opted for the i-VTEC system on both the intake and the exhaust camshafts. They also applied lightweight pistons, dual balance shafts, a forged crankshaft, and re-inforced connecting rods, along with improved cams.

For the 2006-onwards Acura TSX, the K24A2 got an improved air intake duct, from 70mm to 80mm, an upgraded throttle body, from 60mm to 64mm, along with enhanced intake valves, a new intake camshaft, and an exhaust upgrade.

The outcome of this was the best performance that was achieved from the K24A2, pushing out 205 hp at 7,000 rpm and 164 lb/ft torque.

Although the power figures grew from 197-205 hp with the new improvements, torque took a slight hit, going from 171-164 lb/ft.

K24A3

The K24A3 is the same engine as the K24A2, produced for the European and Australian markets. The Honda Accord and Accord Euro models made from 2003 to 2007 carried this 2.4-liter four-cylinder inside the engine bay.

Unlike the K24A2, the K24A3 didn’t receive an upgrade in its later model years, so power remained at the initial figures of 197 hp and 171 lb/ft, with a 7,200 rpm redline.

K24A4

The K24A4 block is often the most common choice for those of you that plan on swapping out the pistons since they can often be sourced for a reasonable price thanks to their popularity.

The K24A4 was based on the A1, rather than the A2, and featured a compression ratio of 9.7:1. It provided 160 hp and 161 lb/ft torque. You can find this engine in everything from the Odyssey to the Civic Si.

Several revisions included an RAA single-stage intake manifold and revised intake and exhaust ports inside the cylinder head, which most enthusiasts agree don’t flow as well as the A1.

The primary purpose of the K24A4 production was to meet strict emissions standards. Since the power barely differs between the two, we’d say that Honda did a pretty decent job.

K24A8

The K24A8 was a slight upgrade from the K24A6, which they refined to meet an updated environmental regulation. Debuting in 2006, the K24A8 powered the Honda Element, Accord, and Odessey. The improved fuel efficiency of this version made it especially attractive for these family vehicles.

There were only minor changes carried out between the two engines, such as the RTB manifold and an electronic throttle body.

Power figures increased slightly with this minor revision, allowing for 166 hp and 161 lb/ft torque.

K24Z1

Launched in 2007 for the Honda CR-V, the K24Z1 officially replaced the K24A1. The K24Z-family’s primary aim was to meet the ever-growing emissions standards, while still trying to build on the success of the K24A.

It continues the 9.7:1 compression, and provides 166 hp and 161 lb/ft torque, with a redline of 6,500 rpm.

For this version, the oil filter is relocated, and internal changes include a forged-steel crankshaft and an internal balancer unit.

They continued to use the later 1-stage RTB intake manifold alongside an electronic drive-by-wire throttle body.

A new, denser catalytic converter has also been introduced to comply with the increasingly harsh emissions standards.

Despite its focus on emissions, the K24Z-family still provides an excellent platform tuning and engine swaps and doesn’t vary much from its predecessors.

K24Z2

The K24Z2 officially replaced the K24A8 on the production line and conformed to the highest emission standards.

Featuring a 10.5:1 compression ratio, revised fuel injectors, an integrated exhaust manifold, and an R40 intake manifold, this enabled power figures of 177 hp and 161 lb/ft torque.

K24Z3/K24Z7

The K24 once again received a significant overhaul when it came to the K24Z3 engine, which arrived with the substantially heavier second-generation Acura TSX.

While the K24Z3 for the Honda Accord had a 10.7:1 compression ratio, which produced less power and torque, it was effectively a K24Z3 with a high-flow exhaust system, capable of 190 hp and 162 lb/ft torque.

On the other hand, the 2009-14 Acura TSX K24Z3 had an improved engine with 31mm exhaust valves and a modified i-VTEC system, also providing a compression ratio of 11.0:1 and an increase to 201 hp and 172 lb/ft torque.

For the CP2 and CS1 Honda Accord models, however, it also featured the TSX’s superior engine, which was also the same as the K24Z7.

Included with the K24Z3 are chain-driven dual balance shafts, i-VTEC on intake and exhaust camshafts, lightweight pistons, uprated rods, and computer-programmed fuel injection (PGM-FI).

K24Z4/K24Z5/K24Z6

In another minor revision, Honda once again had to update the K24Z1 to conform to revised emissions standards, which meant they once again had to use a 9.7:1 compression, this time with 161 hp and 161 lb/ft torque.

The K24Z5 and K24Z6 are similar to the K24Z2, but with minor adjustments. The K24Z5 was only available in China, and the K24Z6 was later offered on Honda CR-V models sold in the United States.

Honda K24 Tuning

According to us here at Drifted.com, “affordable” and “performance” are two words that perfectly describe the Honda K24 engine.

There is a wide variety of options when it comes to tuning the K24 engine, and some incredible power figures are waiting to achieve if you’re willing to put the time and money into unleashing its potential.

Not only that but, you’ll probably need to include some blood, sweat, and tears, and plenty of swearing, too!

We already know that the K24A2 is capable of achieving 205 hp and 164 ft/lb torque out of the factory with the Acura TSX, but what if we want to aim higher?

The general recommendation to get the best basic setup with the K24 is to buy any K24A cylinder block, along with a K20A2, K20A Euro R, or KA20A Type R head.

Be warned that this only applies to the K24A series engines. The K24Z cannot be used due to the pistons making contact with the K20’s cylinder head.

Although it may seem odd to use K20 parts, they feature superior valve springs and camshafts to the K24. If you opt for this route, you’ll also want to consider replacing the K24’s water pump with the K20’s.

With race bearings, high-compression pistons, rods, studs, an uprated flywheel, fuel injectors, an ECU upgrade, and a K20A2 oil pump, you’re likely to get about 260 horsepower.

If that’s not enough, and you want to go to 300hp without looking at the forced induction route, you can do additional internal porting, along with valves, cams, an uprated throttle body, a CAI, and uprated manifolds along with a full exhaust system.

Forced Induction & Crate Engine Options

If you’re willing to go down the forced induction route, then power figures start at around 400hp and are capable of rising to some pretty incredible power figures, if you have the cash to throw at it.

Are you considering building a 500-horsepower K24 engine? This video will show you how it can be done. (Okay, perfectionists, it’s more of a K27, but you get the idea.)

If you do have the cash going spare, then there are always K24 crate engines out there to consider.

Companies such as 4 Piston Racing, offer highly-tuned turn-key K24 crate engines, with their K340 offering 340hp at 9,000 rpm, right the way through to their full drag setup, which is capable of an insane 8.94-second quarter-mile.

Sounds perfect, right? Sure, just be prepared to pay the price! 4 Piston Racing will happily sell you one of these for a hair over $11,000.

The great thing about the K24 engines is the wide variety of modifications on offer. No matter whether you’re looking for some off-the-shelf power upgrades, or a full race engine build.

They’re certainly capable of producing incredible power figures with extremely high levels of reliability when built and maintained correctly. It’s a Honda after all!

They can also make for perfect drift car engines, make sure you turn up the volume and prepare for an eargasm as we head back to 2014 to appreciate this S2000 K24 Formula Drift build:

We always highly recommend doing your research before you opt for the ideal K24 solution, but our information should certainly give you an excellent base for your future build.

Honda K24 Engine Swaps

Okay, so, this is where things get fun. We’ve all seen the Civic EG K24 swaps, and yeah, it’s convenient and all, but let’s face it, everyone and their dog has done that by now.

We’ve seen some pretty wild K24 swaps over the years, from Honda NSXs to bespoke Noble M400s. This just goes to prove what we said earlier with regards to the Honda K24 being the perfect V8 rival for just about anything, from RWD drift cars to mid-engine Time Attack weapons.

A simple Google search will reveal just how many simple K20/K24 swaps there are out there on the market, and there are several off-the-shelf packages for the Mazda Miata and Nissan 240SX owners out there.

For those of you that are considering it for your 240SX or Miata, the most common transmission for the swap would be the BMW ZF manual gearbox, which is thankfully both easily sourced and reasonably priced.

Other common K24 conversions are the likes of the Civic, but also the Toyota MR2, various Lotus’s, and also the Honda S2000.

Let’s start our crazy swap list with this ridiculous Subaru BRZ! BRZ + K24 + Gigantic turbo = This 700 hp insanity:

Since we mentioned mid-engined cars, how about another turbo-powered K24, this time in an MR2?

If MR2’s aren’t your thing, then you can surely appreciate a Supercharged 700hp, 800kg Lotus Exige turbo K24 destroying the competition at a Hillclimb event?

Or, what about the perfect sleeper? This Indonesian dude has the perfect recipe with his Honda Brio!

Finally, it doesn’t get much more awesome than this. This wheelie-popping K24-powered Toyota Tacoma destroys the competition at a drag event to collect $5,000.

Honda K24 Forced Induction

If you are planning to feed your K24 with some sweet, performance-inducing forced induction, there are plenty of choices on the market.

There’s certainly no shortage of turbocharged K24’s out there, but there’s also a decent amount of supercharged ones, too.

Thankfully, the K24 is one of the most convenient engines when it comes to forced induction, and can end up being one of the cheapest and most convenient engines to modify.

With the stock internals being capable of handling up to 4-500hp, you can see why so many people opt for the K24 when it comes to engine swaps.

With that said, forced induction does, of course, put a lot of strain on any engine, especially older ones that have perhaps not been fantastically well-cared-for.

For that reason, we’d always do a thorough tear-down to ensure you have a solid base before going through the effort of forced induction.

We’d also consider going with uprated internals to save the inevitable tears once you’ve started bouncing off the limiter later on.

Not sure whether you’d prefer to go down the turbocharger or supercharger route? We’ve answered all of the questions that are rattling around in your brain in our Turbocharger Vs Supercharger – What’s Best? article.

Honda K24 Reliability & Common Issues

The K-series is a true testament to Honda’s reliability, and a well-maintained stock engine is likely to last you hundreds of thousands of miles with minimal maintenance.

But, here at Drifted, the chances of you opting for the stock route are slim, and for a lot of you, the well-maintained aspect could well be lacking a little, too. (We’re not pointing any fingers!)

Although the engine is extremely robust and durable, it does have some minor niggles, as just about every engine we’ve ever taken a look at would.

One of the main components to fail can be the timing chain sensor, but there are solutions out there to minimize the risk. In addition, the tensioners on the timing chain are known to go bad too. If this happens, you are looking at a repair bill in the neighborhood of $700 to $1200. A small price for JDM supremacy I would say! *wink*

There are occasionally issues with leaking oil seals and excessive wear on the exhaust camshaft.

Rough engine noises can often be attributed to the incorrect use of engine oil or lack of maintenance. Lack of upkeep has also been the leading cause of rattling timing chains.

Over time, this can deteriorate the VTC gear, which would likely need replacing, especially if it’s coming from the right side of the engine.

These are mostly minor niggles, and almost always come down to improper maintenance.

So, keep on top of your servicing and don’t go crazy with modifying *cough* then the lifespan is expected to be at least 2-300,000 miles.

Honda K24 Final Thoughts

Honda’s K-series engines are certainly one of the very best value-for-money choices out there right now.

We’ve compared them to V8’s several times in this guide, but in some ways, we find them even more tempting.

V8’s have often had a tough life, they’re suffering from ever-increasing inflation due to their popularity in the motorsport world, and many of them are certainly showing signs of age. Oh, and did we mention the fuel costs?

We’re not saying that every K24 out there has had an easy life, but we’d bet that Grandma hasn’t been doing quite so many burnouts in her Accord.

If you’re looking for the best K24 engine right out of the box, then you’ll want to take a look at the K24A2.

However, given the convenience of upgrades, modifications, and matching parts between the various K-series engines, we certainly wouldn’t stress too much about making sure we got our hands the A2.

Given how kindly they also take to forced induction, they certainly have to be a consideration for those of you that are going down that route.

With the BMW gearbox conversion, it’s also an extremely convenient swap when it comes to RWD cars, and even more so for mid-engine cars. This 1000-horsepower K-swapped NSX is a perfect example of this.

Honda K24 Conclusion

Honda’s don’t always have the most favorable reputation within the tuning scene, but both the Honda K24 and the K20 certainly deserve a lot of respect, and we think there’s a good chance we may well be seeing even more of them in the years to come.

If that’s the case – we’re not complaining!

We hope that we’ve covered everything you could want to know about the fantastic Honda K24 engine in this guide.

If you’re not entirely sold on the Honda K24 just yet, then make sure you also head over to our Honda K20 guide to help you decide. You should also check out our B16 and D16 guides.

If you’re also interested in the other engines that Honda has to offer, make sure you check out our comprehensive Honda B-Series guide.

Thank you for reading our Honda K24 guide.

If you enjoyed this article, then please share it with the buttons at the side and bottom of your screen. If you’ve found this information useful, then please take a moment to share it with other Honda, or engine swap enthusiasts. We really appreciate your support.

Photography credits

We thank the following entities for the use of their photography in this article:

• kevos2k on S2KI
• Reece Mikkelson on Flickr
• Jason Hoang on Flickr
• Zac Shee on Flickr
• Tennen-Gas on Wikimedia Commons
• Hatsukari715 on Wikipedia
• Engine Swap Depot

The post Ultimate Honda K24 Guide – Everything You Need To Know first appeared on Drifted.com.

• Introduction
• Forced Induction or Engine Swap?
• Miata Engine Swap Cost
• Best Miata Engine Swap
• Conclusion

Introduction

Mazda’s Miata is a tuner’s dream, and we receive endless requests for new articles from enthusiasts looking to build the ultimate Miata – and believe us – there’s certainly no shortage of them!

We’ve compiled a selection of tuning guides to help you make the most out of your Miata, and our ultimate Miata mods guide also provides the top products that we feel are the perfect upgrades.

It’s easy to see why so many favor the Miata. Although it may get dismissed as a ‘hairdresser’s car’, an engine swap provides the perfect chance to leave the haters in your dust (or smoke) on both the twisties and the straights as you comb your way to victory.

Jokes aside, whether it be the original NA Miata or the updated NB Miata, this car provides one of the most incredible handling platforms alongside one of the most affordable price-points, making it appealing to the masses.

After its initial unveiling at the 1989 Chicago Auto Show, it was a complete game-changer in the two-seater roadster line-up, and with a showroom price of just $14,000, they were pretty damn hard to resist.

But let’s be honest, although the Miata has insane handling capabilities. Its straight-line speed leaves little to be desired.

Even if straight-line racing isn’t your thing, if you begin wanting to flick out the back end, you’ll soon realize that lower-powered variants will feel a little gutless.

Why Would You Engine Swap a Miata?

With the earlier 90-98 Mazda Miata MX-5 NA editions featuring just 115 hp from the 1.6L powerplant, it’s certainly not enough to keep the tail wagging in stock form.

Although Mazda addressed the less displacement issue with the later-added 1.8L engine with 133 hp, drifters and tuners alike will soon be lusting after more. Luckily, the Mazda MX-5 Miata offers endless possibilities for you to make it your own.

Mazda made the Miata a sensible alternative to the RX-family. However, with the complications surrounding the far more exciting rotary engine, these roadsters offer the perfect chassis to build your uniquely crazy Mazda.

Not to mention, the Miata has probably the best aftermarket part catalog in the car industry. There are even complete engine swap packages specifically designed to this fun roadster.

Want to do one of the craziest Miata engine swap builds the world has ever seen? Then, you’ve come to the right place!

Forced Induction or Engine Swap?

For some, the appeal of forced induction will understandably be a consideration.

Since we’ve already written turbocharger and supercharger kit guides, enthusiasts often ask whether forced induction or an engine swap is the better choice.

For many Miata owners, going down the forced-induction route with their already-healthy engine could well present a better choice than opting for an engine swap.

With some Miata’s reaching over 500 hp with a boosted setup, we certainly wouldn’t be ruling it out as a possibility.

Given the added complications that can come with an engine swap, a boosted setup can often be a more convenient and cheaper option.

There’s no need to buy mounts or have custom fabrication, nor do you need to think about additional elements such as electrical components.

With that said, engine swaps open up a whole new realm of possibilities and endless potential to explore.

For those who have perhaps blown your Miata engine or feel that it’s seen better days, it could be the perfect opportunity to fit an insane powerplant and build the ultimate sleeper Miata.

But, before you make your decision, you’re going to want to take a look at our next consideration.

Miata Engine Swap Cost

For many of you, you’re likely wondering whether it’s more viable to replace your blown Miata engine or swap it out for something a little more exciting.

Since replacement Miata engines can be picked up conveniently with the asking price often falling below $2500, keeping things simple by upgrading from a 1.6 Mazda BP inline engine to 1.8L could be the most reasonably-priced possibility.

Oftentimes, you can find even better deals at the local car parts auction.

However, let’s face it, the majority of you will be here on the hunt for crazy power with intentions of building a tire-slaying Miata.

Unfortunately, engine swaps aren’t quite as convenient as Forza Horizon, and Need For Speed will have you believe, so you’re going to want to consider a few things first.

If you head to Miata owners clubs, you’ll soon see that just about every swap imaginable has been carried out, with some costing way more than others.

But, unless you’re a mechanical genius with an endless pocket of cash, you’re likely to have some limitations.

Some swaps are more common than others, and while several offerings have off-the-shelf Miata basic swap package kits for everything you could need, others will require you to do the hard work yourself.

When it comes to engine swaps, you’re going to need to consider things such as wiring, and fabrication, neither of which are simple.

What Are the Options?

One option is to hire a skilled professional to do the work – in which case; it certainly won’t be cheap, either.

So, off-the-shelf kits are going to be the best choice for those that are less skilled. Otherwise, you’ll quickly end up with a budget that’s likely to spiral out of control.

You’re also going to need to consider additional components such as the transmission if you’re searching for significant power since the earlier models are only capable of handling around 250 hp before issues are likely to arise

With this said, the cost of swaps can vary, with cheaper engines and convenient kits costing just a few thousand bucks, through to a full conversion which could potentially cost you up to $49,995 – which certainly won’t meet everyone’s Miata budget requirements!

We’re exploring a vast range of options in this guide, so the cost will depend on the swap you choose and how much labor you’re likely to need to fork out.

Projects like this are where skilled buddies can be hugely helpful – better stack up on the beers right away!

Now that you understand the positives and negatives that can come with an engine swap – let’s look at our powerplant considerations.

Best Miata Engine Swap

Although we’d love to tell everyone to fit a 1LR-GUE engine into their Miata, we’re keeping things (sort of) sensible and providing a wide range of options to consider.

Whether you’ve got a minimal budget or deep pockets, are looking for an off-the-shelf kit, or wanting to try something a little more unique, there’s something for everyone in this selection.

LSx V8 Miata Swap

It’ll come as no surprise to see that the LS-engine has made its way here.

After searching for Miata swaps, it won’t take long to be bombarded with LS-builds.

Although Flyin’ Miata used to offer an eye-watering priced drive-in, drive-out swap for the Miata, there are now many options to choose from when it comes to LS swap kits, which is why it’s become such a tempting proposition for many. Let’s be real, this is one of the most popular engine conversions in the world!

Sure, it’s not going to be the cheapest swap by any stretch of the imagination. If you want to do things properly, we expect that even for just the parts, you’re likely to need to save beyond $15,000 with a used LS-block, assuming you’re capable of doing the job yourself.

YouTuber Taylor Ray attempted to prove otherwise by attempting to keep his build under $10k, but we’ll let this video summarize how that went.

In all fairness, we expected the budget to go way beyond this. However, it proves that even when trying to prove a point to the masses, a budget LS build will be challenging.

Miata LS Swap Kits

If you’re looking for off-the-shelf kits, then there are a wide variety of options available, which all use tried and proven components.

CX Racing offers some of the cheapest LS-conversion parts on the market, and their transmission mounts, diff mounts, and swaybar spacers will help with the LS-swap puzzle.

If you’re interested in all of the bargain-priced CXRacing swap parts, make sure you check out their eBay Store.

Flyin’ Miata also offers NA, NB, and NC conversion parts.

LFX Miata swap kits are another popular choice.

V8Roadsters are another highly-regarded alternative for all your LSx swap needs, as well as MiataRoadster, and LSXEverything.

As you can see, the support for the LS-swap is insane. Although it’s not the cheapest option, it’s going to be an awesome swap for just about every motorsport discipline imaginable, from drifting through to drag racing.

Typically, LS1 and LS3 engines are the most popular, and with the potential to head down the turbocharged route, you’re certainly never going to need more power than an LS engine can provide in Miata!

The final result?

Nissan SR20DET

Nissan’s SR20DET certainly needs no introduction here at Drifted. Most commonly found under the hood of the Nissan Silvia, the SR20 has heaps of tuning potential.

It’s not unknown to see this iconic JDM legend hit breaking the 1,000 hp when it comes to upper power potential, but even in stock form with bolt-on mods, you can expect to get nearer 300 hp.

Given the SR20’s desirability in the US, since the USDM Nissan 240SX didn’t get treated to the SR, prices can often be on the higher side, which might make it a less tempting option.

However, if you have a spare SR lying around, there are convenient Miata SR20 swap kits out there for easy installation.

For our European visitors, there’s also the JapTuning SR20 swap kit.

Other potential Nissan possibilities include the RB20DET, RB25DET, and the 2UZ-FE for those keen to stick with the JDM roots.

Toyota 2JZ

While we’re on the subject of JDM, how could we possibly leave the holy grail of Japanese powerplants off our list?

Sure, the 2JZ-GTE is going to be way out of budget for most Miata builds, but the 2JZ-GE is well worth considering.

With a potential 800 hp on offer with the addition of a turbo kit, transforming the naturally aspirated 2JZ-GE with an NA-T turbo kit upgrade provides the perfect opportunity for bargain performance.

The GE engine is commonly found in the likes of the IS300, GS300, and SC300, making it far more common than its rarer 2JZ-GTE counterpart, located in the Supra and Aristo.

If this sounds tempting, make sure you also check out what the 1.5JZ could offer.

GM Ecotec

One of the more commonly found Miata swaps is the General Motors Ecotec engine.

With the 2.4L LE5, provided with models such as the Chevy Cobalt and Pontiac G5/G6 being the most popular choice, EcotecMiata produces a high-quality off-the-shelf swap kit for convenient installation.

For those that are brave enough to undertake an engine swap without the helping hand that a kit provides, the Ecotec has the potential to be one of the most reasonably-priced Miata engine swaps available.

Sure, the 200 hp/200 lb/ft torque that the Ecotec provides is nothing too crazy. Still, the smooth torque curve makes this reasonably-priced, conveniently sourced engine is understandably a tempting proposition to many.

The Ecotec is often seen as a rival contender to Honda’s K20 when it comes to Miata swaps, but it probably isn’t going to provide quite the same level of excitement, nor does “Ecotec just kicked in, yo” have the same appeal!

However, since we’ve seen excellent condition Ecotec engines popping up for sale for as little as $500, it could present the perfect budget swap opportunity if you’ve got the skills and some useful homies.

If you’re hunting more power, then the M52 supercharger can be modded to fit, and there are also turbocharging possibilities, both of which could potentially provide up to 300 hp, which is plenty to provide ear-to-ear grins in a Miata.

It is worth considering whether the swap is worthwhile for those of you with a healthy BP engine, though, since they’re capable of 220 hp with far less fuss than fitting an Ecotec powerplant.

Dodge Hellcat

If sixth-gear burnouts in a Miata are your thing – look no further!

Hellcat engines aren’t going to be within budget for everyone, but for those seeking utter ridiculousness, this 6.2L, 700 hp Miata should provide a nice dose of inspiration.

Suzuki Hayabusa

The Hayabusa became the fastest production motorcycle in 1999, with an incredible top speed of 194 mph.

The 1,299 cc inline-four motorbike engine has since found its way into several lightweight cars, and it could be the perfect match for the Miata.

Although there are a few builds that have surfaced online over the years, we feel that there’s still room for potential when it comes to building the ultimate MiataBusa.

With some twin-turbo offerings pushing out over 350 hp, these popular Mini engine swaps aren’t going to be the cheapest offering.

Still, with a potential 11,000rpm on offer, this incredibly light motorbike engine could present a perfect opportunity for a unique Miata build.

Mazda 13B

Let’s face it, deep down, we all know that a rotary Miata would be incredible, even if they’re a pain in the backside.

Admittedly, it’s typically rotary owners swapping out their rotaries, rather than tuners looking to install them, but when maintained correctly, they’re incredible engines.

The rotary’s size (along with the obvious reliability concerns) are the primary considerations with this swap.

Thankfully, Lucky7Racing also provides an off-the-shelf 13B mount kit for the Miata for those that are looking to keep their engine swap build within the Mazda heritage.

There are fewer engines that sound more incredible than a rotary out there, so if impressive redline capabilities and BRAP BRAP noises are a temptation, the rotary should be on your considerations list.

It’s not all fun and BRAPS with the rotary, though.

With the need to carry out frequent rebuilds, combined with disappointing fuel economy, they’re not going to be too tempting for many.

On a positive note, this means that rotary’s often pop up for surprisingly affordable prices, and you’re likely to be able to grab yourself a bargain 13B to build the ultimate baby RX7.

With the most ridiculous 13B builds achieving 1,300 hp, the possibilities are endless, and the noises shall be glorious!

Honda K-Series

Honda K-Series inline four swaps are hugely common in lightweight two-seaters, and you get the bonus of triggering the Honda haters by screaming ‘VTEC YO’ each time you drive your Miata. Win-win!

Both the K20 and the K24 engines are the perfect match for the Miata, fitting like a glove and keeping in-line with the Miata ethos.

Thankfully, KPower Industries offers an off-the-shelf Miata K24 swap kit.

Naturally aspirated K-series motors are capable of up to 300 hp in naturally-aspirated form and offer a potential redline of 9,000 rpm.

Given that these lightweight, high-revving engines are ideal for such a wide range of swaps, they’re often a bit more expensive than some of the offerings in this guide, but we wouldn’t expect the price to be too crazy.

With immense aftermarket support and forced induction opportunities, the K-Series is a fantastic choice that could potentially reach up to 600 hp with extensive upgrades.

Honda J-Series V6

For those looking for a V6 swap, the J-Series is often a popular choice. If you sweep through the Miata forums, you’re bound to find owners who swear by this swap.

Thankfully, as with most of the popular swaps, there’s an off-the-shelf kit to go with your Miata, and this time it’s Minitec coming up with the goods.

Since the J-Series Honda engine can be found in such a wide variety in the Honda family, engines are easily sourced and exceptionally reasonably priced.

With over 300 hp in stock form, the J-Series is similar to the Miata’s stock engine weight and provides impressive low-end torque.

Although it’s possible to have spare change from around $10,000 with this swap, you may be pushing the stock gearbox beyond its limits with 300 hp on offer, which may need to become an additional consideration.

Overall, an excellent, reasonably priced, easily sourced option, with the added bonus of annoying the Honda haters.

GM LFX V6

Another popular alternative to the above J-Series V6 is the 3.5-liter GM LFX.

Commonly found in the Chevrolet Camaro and CTS, this is another fantastic candidate for those interested in a V6 and seeking a sensible 300 hp-range with your build

V8Roadsters this time provides a whole range of off-the-shelf parts to help with the conversion, and with the commonly-found LSX being readily available, it’s a tempting prospect.

Although it’s slightly heavier than the BP engine, the additional length helps to even out the weight distribution, and despite being taller, it still fits snugly in the bay without the need to chop your hood to pieces.

Overall, it’s an excellent option, and with a 7,200 rpm redline, it fits the Miata ethos far better than some of the big-power V8 torque monsters out there.

Jaguar 3.0-liter AJ30 V6

Still want to go down the V6 route but want to be more “Bri’ish?” Fear not, Roketeer – a UK-based tuning firm has got you covered!

You might have already come across this engine swap thanks to YouTuber Alex Kersten if you are subscribers of the Car Throttle and Auto Alex channels. His Miata, which he affectionately calls “Phil” comes with this powerplant under the hood.

Rocketeer refers to this engine as the MXV6, and it is based upon the aforementioned Jaguar V6. It makes around 230 horsepower, which is more than enough to make the lightweight MX-5 plenty fast. The 220 lb-ft of torque naturally helps, too!

The base Jaguar engine was conceived when Jaguar was under the ownership of American automotive juggernaut Ford. So, it is safe to say that this is one of the most reliable engine swaps on this list.

If you are interested, Rocketeer will happily provide everything you need for a direct swap for just $7,995.

That includes everything from a carbon fiber intake manifold, the front subframe, mounting brackets, and a bespoke clutch. However, you’ll have to source the engine by yourself.

Toyota 1GZ-FE V12

You probably think we’re kidding, but nope. Our searches for unique Miata swaps turned up this beauty.

The best thing about this swap? It’s just an everyday guy that decided it’d be a good idea to whack a V12 into his Miata engine bay.

Oh, and those damn sexy headers!

We love the work and effort that’s gone into this build. As you probably guessed, it’s not the most straightforward swap out there, and we’d quite happily see this be the only one, as the work is fantastic.

Amusingly, the owner has also established that there’s still room for twin turbos in the bay, so we can’t wait to see how crazy this could get.

If you love this awesome project as much as we do, then make sure you follow That V12 Miata Bruh on YouTube.

Conclusion

There’s an incredible variety of options out there when it comes to finding the perfect engine swap for your Miata build.

Although the stock engines respond well to forced induction, we can understand the temptation to go with something more unique, with even more potential further down the line.

Since Miata’s are incredibly affordable, they provide an incredibly exciting chassis in stock form. With some off-the-shelf handling upgrades and an engine swap, they’ve got the potential to be some of the most exciting cars on the road.

There’s no end to the potential that this humble two-seater roadster has to offer, so feel free to go wild with your build.

If you’ve built a unique Miata in your own original design, and you’d love for us to feature it in this guide, then make sure you drop us a line. We’re always interested in sharing epic builds with our huge worldwide fanbase.

So, there we have it! We hope that we’ve covered everything you could want to know about the best engine swaps for your Miata in this guide.

Thank you for reading our Miata engine swap guide.

If you enjoyed this article, please share it with the buttons at the bottom of your screen. If you’ve found this information useful, then please take a moment to share it with other Miata enthusiasts. We appreciate your support.

Photography credits

We thank the following entities for the use of their photography in this article:

• dave_7 on Flickr
• Road and Track
• CXRacing

The post Ultimate Miata Engine Swap Guide first appeared on Drifted.com.

In a hurry? Here, you can click on a particular section within this article. Otherwise, scroll down as we put the M3 vs M4 head-to-head!

• M3 vs M4
• Driving Experience
• Features, Technology & Safety
• How to disable active sound BMW M3 & M4
• Which car is faster BMW M3 vs M4?
• How do the previous generations compare?
• The future of the M3 & M4
• Conclusion

Introduction

BMW’s slogan is “The Ultimate Driving Machine.” Their M-car range undoubtedly sits proudly at the forefront of that experience.

Among the many M-cars on sale, the M3 and M4 are among the most popular.

With the M3 and M4 leading the pack today, is there a clear winner between the two? That’s the question we are looking to answer for you today.

With the M3 hogging the limelight in the family since the birth of the notorious E30 in 1986, the closest sibling it had was arguably the M5 or the short-lived Z4M. That was, until the launch of the 1M coupe in 2011.

This new M car mixed things up for BMW, as before this wild younger brother entered the market.

Aside from the M3, BMW had mainly focused on the M5 and M6, which certainly didn’t lack power or presence, but it could be argued that these missed the mark when it came to a more affordable, agile car for the masses.

After all, if you were in the market for a high-performance luxury car that makes for the perfect daily driver, shows off its reliability around the Nürburgring, and then drives you home in divine comfort, few cars rivaled the M3.

Although the 1M compact car was comparable, if not superior, in many ways, it would seem that BMW had never intended it to be a long-term choice.

After selling less than 6,500 models during the 1M’s brief life span, BMW confirmed this. After a one-year production period, it would be cast aside and left to become a rare legend for future history books – and a fan favorite!

The M4 Joins the Party

Shortly after ceasing production of the 1M, it was time to unveil a new model as an alternative. This would also come with two brand-new M4 variants – the F82 and the F83.

If you’re unsure of the model numbers, the F82 was the sleek and stylish coupe, and the F83 was the sexy cabriolet/convertible for those that are partial to a little ‘wind in the hair’ feeling!

At the same time as the unveiling of the new M4, BMW also released the brand-new F80 M3 to the market, showing both models off at the 2014 North American International Auto Show. Talk about causing a stir!

Despite the previous-generation E92 M3 being available in sedan, coupe, or convertible body-types, the F80 was obtainable in just one variant – a chunky, aggressive-looking, four-door saloon, which certainly doesn’t lack in road presence or rear leg room.

In short, you can say that the M4 replaced the M3 coupe and convertible in the lineup.

Now, if you’re not already aware, you’re probably wondering what the other differences are between the M3 and the M4, which we will take a more in-depth look at now.

M3 vs M4

As you’ve probably guessed, we can’t have an article about these cars without putting them head-to-head against each other. I mean, that’s what you’re here for, right?!

Undoubtedly, they look similar when placed side-by-side, with the noticeable exception of the number of doors and the slightly more aggressive styling of the M3.

We won’t try and fool you; these cars are very similar. However, there are some subtle and more noticeable differences along the way.

Firstly, the M3 is undoubtedly more practical for most uses. With the extra doors, you’ll benefit from the odd occasion where you’re keen to get the inconvenient passenger in the back seats.

The M3 also has a more illustrious pedigree behind its name as well!

The M3 features more aggressive styling, with bold, chunky fender flares. There’s no doubt that it’s one of the craziest-looking sedans on the market!

There were cost savings on the M3 when they were both purchased new, which is likely to reflect in the used car market further down the line, which could be the perfect opportunity to bag a bargain.

Those who are after a high-performance car are more likely to opt for the sportier M4 coupe, while those who use their M for everyday life may prefer the M3 sedan.

You’re also going to bag some additional room with an M3 since it offers additional interior volume with an extra inch and a half of headroom and legroom for those in the back, and they’re also spoiled with a more comfortable and spacious rear seat. There’s also a cubic foot of cargo space for those valuable moments.

Under the Hood

There would be no shocking surprises under the hood unless you weren’t aware that BMW has done without the previous generation V8 in favor of the S55B30 engine in both cars. This time around, it’s the twin-turbo 3.0-liter inline-six that’s the weapon of choice, producing north of 425 hp and 406 lb/ft torque.

Although we can almost hear the collective groan of the V8 fanboys from here, you’ll perhaps be glad to hear that the change did provide substantially positive gains in engine performance, no less than 11 horsepower and 111 lb-ft of torque.

Not only is there a healthy increase here, but the previous naturally-aspirated V8 engine didn’t peak horsepower until 8,300rpm, where the new inline-six reaches its maximum potential at just 5,500rpm through to the redline

Likewise, it can reach the maximum 406 lb/ft of torque at only 1,850 right through to 5,500 rpm!

Alongside this, M purists are likely to be disappointed that their raw naturally-aspirated classics of yesteryear have now transformed into twin spoolers, which certainly doesn’t provide the same response or noise that the old-school generations once offered.

Before you get upset, you’ll be relieved to hear that despite the turbos, BMW’s favorite, the inline-six, can still be pushed to 7,600rpm, which is remarkable for an unmodified turbocharged engine.

Transmission & Brakes

BMW has gone out of its way even further to try and keep the purists happy, too.

Unlike many of their modern-day rivals, both cars still provide the choice between an old-school six-speed manual gearbox with rev-matched downshifts alongside the 7-speed M-DCT twin-clutch automatic transmission.

Where the M-DCT launches the car from 0-62mph in 3.9 seconds with launch control, BMW states that it’ll take 4.1 seconds to do the same with the manual transmission, although your local hero will undoubtedly argue otherwise!

In a day and age where manual sports cars are few and far between, the M3 and M4 still survive as probably the only two German sports sedans with a clutch pedal.

Regarding stopping, the optional carbon-ceramic brakes on both cars are incredibly refined, and if you’ve got the spare change, we’d highly recommend the upgrade.

With the extra doors of the M3 also comes a few extra kilos over the M4, 23 to be precise. This isn’t bad, considering it’ll make life far easier for shoving the kids or the mother-in-law in the back. Despite the extra doors, the M4 has slightly larger dimensions, being marginally longer.

BMW did intentionally go out of its way to make this as light as possible, though, and it’s the first time in its history that they’ve built a new car lighter than its predecessor. You can expect a similarly-equipped E92 to weigh 176lbs more cumbersome than the younger brother.

The weight-loss partly comes down to the vast amount of aluminum used in the design, such as the hood and front fenders, alongside weight savings on other aspects, such as cabin sound insulation materials, which can be surprisingly heavy!

Suspension Setup

The suspension has always been a hugely important factor for M cars, and these were, of course, no exception. Crafted from both aluminum and forged aluminum, this has helped keep the weight down while also improving rigidity.

Both cars rock the same forged wheel setup, too. With 18″ x 9″ s up front and 18″ x 10″ in the rear, unless you opt for the recommended carbon-ceramic brakes, you’ll need to upgrade to 19’s.

It probably won’t come as a surprise that they share the same differential, too. This time it’s an electronically-controlled multi-plate diff, which works alongside the stability control system.

This means it takes readings of various sensors, such as throttle position, wheel rotation speed, and yaw rate, which then adjusts the torque between 0-100 percent. Although this probably sounds boring to the purists and doesn’t make for a terrifying setup, it does the intended job well.

When it comes to sound, you’ve probably guessed, since everything besides weight so far has been identical, that there’s no difference in that department either! This would never sound as impressive as the high-revving old-school engines, but this is one aspect where both cars are slightly let down.

It feels as though the artificial engine sounds from manufacturers have almost become accepted into the motoring world now, but it’s still something that we’re struggling to deal with. In our minds, the adrenaline-fueled sound is one of the main factors missing from both cars, which crafts a considerable part of an M-car‘s personality.

Step back into an E30, an E36, or even an E46, and they’ll scream and purr through the gears. Undoubtedly, we miss that raw feeling that’s somewhat missing in modern cars.

Driving Experience

You’ve probably noticed that size, doors, and weight aside, there isn’t much to compare between the two cars, but how do they fare when it comes to daily use or hitting the canyons or the track? That’s precisely what we’ll explore here.

Well, although it may come as a surprise, the truth is that there, yet again, isn’t an awful lot to tell between them!

The F80 had much to live up to, as the E9x M3 were still immensely-loved driver cars. The 4.0-liter V8 may not have been the purists’ dream, but it naturally found its home under the hood and continued to deliver the raw sound that we’ve been craving from the recent models.

It has to be said, though, that despite lacking awesome noises, the 406 lb/ft torque entering at 1,850rpm makes both of these modern cars a joy to drive as a road-going daily, which is something that the E9x series certainly didn’t have due to its lack of torque.

The new six-speed manual box is the absolute best that BMW has ever produced, and they’ve used an uprated version of the previous 1M coupe box, but this time they’ve perfected and lightened it, especially for these models.

If you’re lucky enough to have the opportunity to get your hands on a manual, you’ll undoubtedly know what we mean.

However, with less than twenty percent of all sales in manual, it may be a struggle to get your hands on one unless there’s one at your local showroom or on the used market.

Although the manual box is incredibly impressive, the rev-match feature takes some adapting.

One of the bonuses of getting a manual is being able to do the work yourself, and although some people may prefer the automated feature, it’ll again trigger the purists!

Modern Driving Controls

If you wish to control this yourself, you’ll need to activate the Sport Plus throttle mode, which is fine unless you’ve adapted to doing this daily in typical driving scenarios. Having this option in the standard driving mode would be nice.

We love the sheer amount of adjustability provided, which allows you to completely customize your experience, matching the “Ultimate Driving Machine” ethos.

If you want to push the car’s power potential but still have comfort for the rough roads on the canyon run, then you can change the power to how you want it but leave the suspension comfortably soft to absorb the bumps (and crashes) of the open road.

When it comes to pushing the car, it does feel more modern and automated than the E9x, as you may suspect. It’s safe to say that the E9x was the last true ‘analog’-feeling car, and the sheer quantity of high-tech gadgets and assists at your disposal has become more apparent than ever.

With the electronically assisted steering, it feels lighter and almost like the computer is often doing the work for you. It’s certainly a long distance away from the original E30!

If you’re keen to stick with the old-school feel, it may well be worth looking at some of the previous generations to see if any tick the right boxes for your needs.

What About the Latest Generation?

All these driving characteristics carry forward to the “G” generations of the M3 and M4, albeit with significant improvements in handling and power.

There’s no question that this generation is king regarding usable power, though. Whether on the road or track, the twin-turbo setup comes to life and provides limitless power and torque throughout the entire rev range.

Whatever your thoughts, the later generations are the fastest on paper, but it’s also clearly displayed when you’re behind the wheel!

When it comes to the driving experience, it’ll be down to you to your preference to decide whether you want the fast-paced modern thrill or the raw driving feel of the previous generations.

Features, Technology & Safety

After covering the driving features above, we thought we’d glance at the extra gadgets you’ll get with your purchase, and these cars certainly aren’t short of them!

Despite so many changes from the E9x, the interior changes must be up there with some of the most substantial. If you were to go from either of these and then back to an E9x, it’s likely to feel like you’ve stepped back in time!

With safety features such as side and top view camera systems, lane departure warnings, blind spot detection, and even additional features such as frontal collision and crash prevention, this is all displayed on a glorious 8.8-inch screen with Apple CarPlay.

Not only that, the list goes on and on to include more such automated parallel parking, automatic high beam lights, an optional head-up display, and even a heated steering wheel. I suspect the purists might struggle to find these features in their E30s!

However, it is essential to note that advanced safety features like active lane-keep assist and traffic jam assist are available with the “Driving Assistance” active safety suit, offered by the more expensive competition versions.

These additional features certainly add to the whole experience, combining some of the most impressive modern-day technology with perfected comfort, which makes it a joy to be in every day, even on tedious long journeys.

How to disable active sound BMW M3 & M4

For those of you struggling to adapt to the active sounds that play through the speakers and emulate the engine sounds, you’ll be glad to hear that there is a way to disable it.

Although it’s a simple process, this video guide will show you the procedure step-by-step. If you’re not confident working on cars, we recommend outsourcing the job to a professional.

Which car is faster? BMW M3 vs M4

Given that both cars utilize an identical engine and drivetrain in the current generation, depending on the transmission you choose, the M4 would be the faster car due to its weight loss over the M3.

With that said, the weight difference is minimal, and we certainly wouldn’t be making this a make-or-break decision when buying either car.

Check out this video of the two 2021 models going head-to-head to see how close it is on the drag strip:

How do the previous generations compare?

BMW E30 M3 – 192hp-235hp

With the U.S. being handed just 192hp in their E30 M3, the AK07 European-spec offering was far more impressive, delivering 235hp in stock form.

BMW E36 M3 – 240hp-316hp

Unfortunately, things didn’t improve very much for the U.S. market in the second generation, with just 240hp on offer. Meanwhile, in Europe, the earlier models were handed 286hp before achieving 321hp for the later 3.2L version.

BMW E46 M3 – 333hp-338hp, BMW E46 M3 CSL – 360hp

Thankfully, BMW finally stepped up their game for the launch of the E46 M3 and released the same impressive S54 engine for both the U.S. and Europe, with only minor differences.

BMW E9x M3 – 414hp, BMW E92 M3 GTS – 444hp

The impressive shared power continued, and as always, the power figures and lap times continued to improve for the E92 M3, which featured the S65 V8 for the first time.

BMW F80 M3- 425hp, BMW F80 M3 CS – 454hp

This generation of the M3 replaced the V8 powerplant with an inline-six akin to the models of yesteryear. Two turbochargers were strapped on top to give this generation a healthy increase in power over the model it replaced.

BMW F82/F83 M4 – 425hp, M4 Competition – 444hp, M4 CS – 453hp, M4 GTS – 493hp

As you can see, the power figures have continuously climbed throughout the generations, with the last generation M4 GTS almost tipping the 500hp mark.

BMW G80/81 M3 – 473 hp, G82/83 M4 – 473 hp, M3 & M4 Competition – 503 hp, M3 CS – 543 hp , M4 CSL – 543 hp

The latest generation of the M3 and M4 saw both models eclipse 500 horsepower, with the M3 CS and M4 CSL currently offering close to 550 horses for owners to play with.

Take a trip down memory lane as Internitus looks at all of the previous M models in this fantastic video.

The future of the M3 & M4

The latest G80/81 generation of the BMW M3 came out for the 2021 model year, based on the latest seventh-generation 3-series (G20). It was followed by the G22 4-series-based M4 (G82/G83)

As expected, the two brand-new models brought many new features on the surface and underneath the hood. The twin-kidney grilles up front got larger than ever before, which sparked outrage among BMW enthusiasts.

Not only that but there were mixed opinions on the engine of choice as well, as it was pretty controversial.

Although the engine was an inline-six twin-turbo, it was the time S58 from the X3 and X4M, based on the new M340i and the fifth-generation *ahem* Toyota Supra.

However, this powerplant is no slouch. The standard 2024 BMW M4 makes 473 horsepower and 406 lb-ft of torque.

Want to know something even better? This RWD sedan comes with a six-speed manual transmission! These performance figures remain the same for the M3, too.

As with the previous generations, BMW also released some high-performance variants of these vehicles. The competition models increase the horsepower to 503, while the even more limited 2024 M3 CS goes bonkers, offering 543 horses on tap.

Undoubtedly, the essential M3/M4 model to come out with this latest generation was the 2023 BMW M4 CSL. Coming with the legendary “CSL” moniker, this 543 hp sports coupe had a lot to live up to. And we have to say; it achieved this task with flying colors. Even if the looks are somewhat of an acquired taste!

With so many powerful models already under its belt, we can’t wait to see what the future holds for these “M” siblings.

Final Thoughts

We’ve certainly done a lot of comparison guides here at Drifted, but the sheer amount of similarities between the M3 and the M4 has shown how little these two modern-day masterpieces vary. For some, it may be as simple as whether they’re looking for two or four doors.

Although there were rumors that an M4 Gran Coupé was on the horizon, which would’ve made this an even tougher choice, BMW has apparently ruled out the possibility of this happening in the near future.

Both are terrific cars in their own right. Although they may not be everyone’s idea of perfection due to the modern nature of the current generation, there’s no doubt that their everyday potential combined with sheer power, reliability, and convenience makes it easy to see where the temptation lies.

Suppose you’re after a more raw ‘old school’ feel, rather than making the most of the modern technology on offer. In that case, we’d highly recommend also looking at the previous M3 generations, as they’re all gloriously unique in their own right.

Conclusion

When it boils down to the ultimate question of this guide, M3 vs. M4, it comes down to what your needs are from your car on an everyday basis, but also which one will make you turn around most when you walk away.

Some enthusiasts will argue that a high-performance sports car should never be a sedan with four doors, while others will prefer the aggressive flares of the M3 while they open the back door to conveniently let their friends in the back before giving them the thrill of their life!

The weight changes are so slight between the two, but the M4 has a slight advantage, but we don’t think it should be considered.

Both the engine and drivetrain are identical in both cars, and the power delivery is incredibly impressive.

There are very few rivals on the market for either car when it comes to having something which will put up a good fight against most vehicles on both the road and the track while also providing the comfort and reliability that these have to offer.

So, take a long, hard look at both cars, go with the one that makes you fall in love, and enjoy the experience of owning one of the most impressive all-around rides that money can buy!

Thank you for reading our M3 vs M4 guide!

If you enjoyed this article, please share it with the sharing buttons at the side and the bottom of your screen.

Want to know why BMW enthusiasts claim that the N54 engine is the ‘German 2JZ’? Find out here.

Photography credits

We thank the following entities for the use of their photography in this article:

• Benjamin Child on Unsplash
• Rodan Can on Unsplash
• Carter Brink on Unsplash
• Takayuki Suzuki on Flickr
• peterolthof on Flickr
• Toby_Parsons on Pixabay

The post BMW M3 Vs M4 – What’s The Difference? first appeared on Drifted.com.

• Introduction
• Assetto Corsa
• Assetto Corsa Competizione
• Automobilista 2
• DiRT Rally 2.0
• Gran Turismo Sport
• iRacing
• Project CARS
• Live For Speed
• Project CARS 2
• Project CARS 3
• RaceRoom Racing Experience
• rFactor 2
• Dash Dash World
• Best VR Headsets in 2022
• VR Racing Games FAQ
• Conclusion

Introduction

Despite many gamers once dismissing VR as being a gimmick that would never take off, it’s continued to thrive, even without support from tech giants such as Microsoft, along the way. That is not to say that tech giants aren’t on board, however, as proven by the recent introduction of Apple’s Vision Pro.

Recent years have provided an ever-increasing improvement in the VR experience, and video game developers from various genres have begun focusing on Virtual Reality more than ever when creating new games for the market.

We feel that the future of VR is going to be fascinating after having witnessed the rapid progression in recent times.

Just a few years ago, the thought of putting a headset on in your home and diving into a fully immersive world where you’ll find yourself in the cockpit of your favorite race, or drift cars, almost seemed laughable by any stretch of the imagination.

Yet, the rapid technological advancements continue to blow our minds. With some phenomenal VR headsets becoming more affordable to the masses than ever, it’s an exciting time to witness gaming enthusiasts transitioning over to the VR world.

With the COVID pandemic forcing closure for most of the racetracks around the world, VR has remained pandemic-free, allowing you to step into the cockpit at any time, in the comfort of your own home.

VR and Racing Games – A Match Made in Heaven

Racing, or driving games, are perfectly suited to the VR experience. Combined with a wheel and pedal setup, it offers the perfect escape from the real world, alongside providing the speed, adrenaline, and excitement that comes with racing.

We don’t often throw the term ‘game-changer’ around very often, but we feel that’s the perfect way to begin to explain the feeling that comes with VR racing. We’re pretty sure you’ll never get tempted to return to ‘pancake screen’ racing ever again.

Where we would once require a triple-monitor setup to get the correct field-of-view to look out of our side windows when playing drifting games, a simple turn of the head is all that’s required.

Once you’ve got a VR headset, you’ll be thankful for the additional space that you gain without the need for a triple-screen setup, too!

It’s time to combine the present-day with the future and experience the very best of what VR has to offer as we take a look at the breathtaking VR sim racing world.

We’re excited to share our favorite VR racing (and drifting, of course) games to see what’ll be the perfect choice for you.

Best VR Racing Games

What one person classes as an incredible game, another person might disagree.

We often find this to be the case in sim racing, where some people might be keen on the idea, but when it comes to getting behind the wheel, they realize their talents aren’t quite up-to-scratch just yet.

For that reason, there are various games on the market, some of which offer a more arcade-style racing experience such as Madalin Stunt Cars 3, and others that are designed for world-class professional drivers to refine their skills off the track.

On the other hand, some might be looking for an out-the-box experience, where they can plug in their VR headset and drive some of their favorite cars at their dream tracks.

Others might be wanting to explore what the third-party mod communities have to offer, building the most expansive collection of cars and tracks imaginable.

With so many considerations to bear in mind, we’ve opted to keep this list in alphabetical order rather than ranking it from best to worst since we’ve already eliminated games that we wouldn’t personally consider playing.

Let’s take a look at our favorite VR racing and drifting games!

Assetto Corsa

Compatibility: Valve Index, HTC Vive, Meta/Oculus Rift/Quest

We begin our list with Assetto Corsa, which coincidentally happens not only to be the first game alphabetically, but many will argue that it’s also the best VR sim racer out there.

In the early days, there were several issues regarding menus/HUD systems for those trying to enjoy the VR experience, which made for many complaints online. We’re happy to declare that these issues have since been fixed, so we advise looking past that.

Assetto Corsa is arguably (and many will happily voice their opinion) the ultimate game for those looking to make drifting a priority.

It’s so popular that we’ve even written an entire Assetto Corsa VR guide.

Not only does it provide incredible gameplay with a bargain price tag to match, but the drifting mod community for this game is way beyond any other game on our list.

We can almost guarantee that just about any (half-decent) track, or car you can think of will have a mod available – completely free of charge.

Want to launch Daigo Saito‘s JZX100 over the infamous jump at Ebisu Minami? Assetto Corsa has got you covered.

There’s a reason why so many pro-level drifters have begun competing online with Assetto Corsa recently, and we feel that backs up our claims of it being the best drifting simulator game out there.

Assetto Corsa VR on PC

It might not be the most extraordinary when it comes to pixel-peeping at the graphics, but the benefit is that it will consume fewer resources on your PC. Assuming your PC can run VR, it’s likely to be more than enough for AC.

If you’ve got a high-spec gaming PC, crank the graphics up to Maximum, and we’re sure you won’t be disappointed.

We highly recommend checking out the Content Manager for the ultimate experience for those of you that are planning to go down the Assetto Corsa route.

Although Assetto Corsa provides an exceptional experience for PC gamers, the console game won’t allow you to install mods, which is one of the games’ main advantages.

For that reason, it may be worth thinking about making the switch to PC.

If you like the sound of AC, but you’re looking for a GT-dedicated racing game rather than a drifting game, then make sure you check out Assetto Corsa’s younger brother, Assetto Corsa Competizione next.

Assetto Corsa Competizione

Compatibility: Valve Index, HTC Vive, Meta/Oculus Rift/Quest

Assetto Corsa Competizione is the latest game from Assetto Corsa, and although many enthusiasts were hoping that it would be AC 2, that’s not the case.

There was a specific target market with Competizione, and that was GT3 Endurance racing enthusiasts. Think of it as the GT3 equivalent of the F1 gaming series.

ACC is undoubtedly stunning and thoroughly enjoyable, but given its slim target market, it’s not going to be as favorable as Assetto Corsa when it comes to mass-appeal.

When it comes to sound, visuals, physics engine, and weather, ACC is arguably a step in the right direction over its older sibling.

However, that does come at the expense of system resources, so you may need to consider a GPU upgrade to ensure you’re able to reach its full potential.

If you’re looking for a GT3 sim racer, then look no further.

Alternatively, if you’re anything beyond GT3, we recommend opting for the original game.

Automobilista 2

Compatibility: Valve Index, HTC Vive, Meta/Oculus Rift/Quest

Automobilista 2 is one of the most recent entrants to the VR gaming world, and it’s received a substantial amount of praise from sim racers.

Built upon an evolution of the ‘Madness Engine’ that Slightly Mad Studios used for Project CARS 2, this is arguably the best-looking racing game in VR right now.

The AI was somewhat questionable during our experiences with the game, but these kinds of bugs will undoubtedly get ironed out with updates.

AMS 2 makes for a tremendous out-of-the-box VR experience, where we wouldn’t expect to have to spend too much time tweaking the settings, which is one of the main complaints of ACC players.

Overall, a great option to consider for those that are looking for an impressive VR racing game. With it still being new to the market, there’s bound to be plenty of updates and DLC content coming soon.

Drifting in the game is possible with a decent RWD setup, but it’s certainly not going to be competing with Assetto Corsa for the drifting crown.

At the current time, it’s only available for PC, but they are considering introducing the game to consoles further down the line.

DiRT Rally 2.0

Compatibility: Valve Index, HTC Vive, Meta/Oculus Rift/Quest

If you’re a keen VR sim racer, then we highly recommend checking out what DiRT Rally has to offer.

We found this to be one of the most enjoyable yet unforgiving and intense VR games that provides a truly unique experience.

It probably won’t come as much of a surprise that it’s entirely rally cars, so Scandinavian flicks are about the closest you’ll get to drifting.

We found that the bumpy off-road tracks with endless sharp twists and turns made for a stomach-churning rollercoaster experience at first – it’s probably not the perfect game right after a big meal!

Jokes aside, it may take a little longer to build up your motion sickness abilities, so we would recommend getting started with track racing sim before heading straight to DiRT Rally.

Although there are only rally cars, there’s plenty of classes and eras in the game to keep it interesting, we thoroughly enjoy it, and it stays in our constant VR gaming rotation.

Unfortunately, there’s once again disappointing news for those hoping to play DiRT Rally 2.0 on the PSVR, as Codemasters has decided that they won’t be integrating the PSVR platform.

However, the original DiRT Rally does have PSVR support and is still well worth considering.

Gran Turismo Sport

Compatibility: PlayStation VR (PSVR)

PlayStation’s popular racing simulator has made great use of their very own PSVR system.

Although racing games are few and far between for the PlayStation console, both this and the original DiRT Rally game will provide more than enough to keep most entry-level gamers happy.

GT Sport provides incredible graphics with insane attention to detail. Although it’s not a ‘hardcore’ simulator like most of the games on our list, it makes for an excellent introduction to VR racing.

Although Sony has welcomed the future of VR gaming, Microsoft hasn’t been so keen to do so with the Xbox console, which gives GT Sport the edge over Forza Motorsport 7 in this regard.

Overall, GT Sport is a worthwhile purchase for those of you that already have a PSVR headset.

However, if you’re a PC gamer, we certainly wouldn’t be rushing out to buy a PlayStation console.

iRacing

Compatibility: Valve Index, HTC Vive, Meta/Oculus Rift/Quest

Many VR sim racers regard iRacing as the indisputable champion, and admittedly, they do have a point.

There are now more professional racing drivers than ever refining their skills on iRacing off the track, which is a testament to just how realistic this game is.

If you’re looking for the ultimate racing experience, which is just as unforgiving as the real thing, then iRacing could well be the answer.

I mean, it all sounds perfect. Right?

Well, almost.

There’s a slight issue with iRacing, and that’s the cost.

To put things in perspective, you could get your hands on Assetto Corsa for $19.99, assuming there are no discounts at the time.

On the other hand, iRacing will set you back $13—a month.

That’s right – if you opt to pay monthly over a year, prepare to spend $156 to enjoy what iRacing has to offer.

Admittedly that cost comes down to $110 with an annual membership or $199 for two years, but it’s still insanely expensive.

Oh, and that’s for the basic package.

If you want additional cars and tracks, expect to part with either $11.95 or $14.95 – EACH.

Now, we understand that for incredibly dedicated sim racers, this may well be worth the price. You’re likely to meet some serious competition on the online servers, including some of the world’s best drivers.

However, for an inexperienced amateur coming into VR sim racing, we certainly wouldn’t start with iRacing.

We also wouldn’t consider iRacing if you’re an occasional gamer or like to alternate between a range of games, as you probably won’t be getting your money’s worth.

Assuming you’re talented behind the steering wheel, looking for the ultimate racing simulator, and you don’t mind paying the price, this is the game for you.

Live For Speed

Compatibility: Valve Index, HTC Vive, Meta/Oculus Rift/Quest

Live For Speed has been a popular drifting simulator for many years, and many will argue that LFS provides a better drifting sim experience over Assetto Corsa.

In our opinion, we would say that LFS makes for an excellent starter for experiencing sim drifting, but for us, Assetto Corsa takes it to the next level.

It’s certainly up there with the best drifting games, but for us, the sheer amount of mod content that Assetto Corsa provides makes it the more appealing choice.

Project CARS

Compatibility: Valve Index, HTC Vive, Meta/Oculus Rift/Quest

We’d forgive you for wondering why we’re talking about the first Project CARS game when we’re now up to PC3.

The reason is that the Pagani Edition of the game is available for completely free on the Steam Store, and we feel that this provides the perfect introduction for VR gamers on a budget.

Sure, it might not be not quite as refined as its successor, Project CARS 2, but many would argue that it’s superior to Project CARS 3.

Either way, if you’re after a free VR racing simulator game to decide whether it will be worth investing in, this provides the perfect opportunity.

With a comprehensive career mode alongside a great variety of vehicles and tracks, we’ve got no doubt that Project CARS will keep you entertained while you save for your perfect sim racer.

Project CARS 2

Compatibility: Valve Index, HTC Vive, Meta/Oculus Rift/Quest

Many consider Project CARS 2 to be the best all-rounder when it comes to VR racing games.

After making a decent impression with the first game in the franchise, they delivered some fantastic improvements for the second game.

Project CARS 2 brings a selection of more than 200 cars, including some of the most well-known drift cars, such as Vaughn Gittin JR’s wheelie-popping Mustang and Mad Mike’s Radbul.

Games such as iRacing are more hardcore simulators, whereas PC2 provides a polished package with excellent graphics and physics in a slightly more arcade-style package.

If you’re a Forza Motorsport fan looking to enjoy VR, PC2 is about as close as you’re going to get.

With recent breakthroughs in editing the game, a thriving new Project CARS 2 mod community has been growing over the recent months, providing some exciting new developments.

It’s not as good as Assetto Corsa when it comes to drifting, but it still provides an enjoyable experience, alongside a wide variety of unique motorsport disciplines.

A great out-the-box package providing plenty of content to keep you entertained, PC2 is regarded by many gamers as the best choice in the Project CARS franchise.

Project CARS 3

Compatibility: Valve Index, HTC Vive, Meta/Oculus Rift/Quest

If you’d like to see how not to treat your existing fanbase, then check out how the launch for Project CARS 3 has gone.

As Project CARS 2 took a step-up from its predecessor, many Project CARS fans were excited to see the third game hitting the market.

… Until they played it.

Where Project CARS had earned its reputation as a ‘friendly’ simulator that’s more forgiving than the likes of iRacing, they’ve opted to go in completely the opposite direction for the third game.

Many fans believe that the simulator game they know and love has disappeared, replaced with a full-on arcade game with very few similarities to the real-world racing experience.

We’ve opted to keep it in this list to inform you that it’s changed drastically, but also because it has great visuals, an excellent sense of speed, and fantastic VR.

Project Cars 3 will still be enjoyable for those looking for a more forgiving VR game to get them started in the sim racing world.

Hardcore racers, we highly recommend looking elsewhere.

RaceRoom Racing Experience

Compatibility: Valve Index, HTC Vive, Meta/Oculus Rift/Quest

One of the less-common choices in the VR sim racing sector is RaceRoom Racing Experience.

This realistic free-to-play racing sim is another excellent game to get you started with VR.

We’ve spent a fair bit of time playing RaceRoom initially, and we found the game to be enjoyable, with excellent collision physics.

In all honesty, we did feel that the other games in our list had more of a longer-lasting appeal and just ticked more boxes than R3E.

One of the main benefits is that it’ll work great on a basic-spec PC, assuming it’s capable of running your VR rig, making it perfect for beginners.

Since it’s completely free, there’s no harm in giving it a try – many gamers out there are huge fans.

rFactor

Compatibility: Valve Index, HTC Vive, Meta/Oculus Rift/Quest

rFactor 2 seems to be the love/hate champion when it comes to VR sim racers.

While some insist that it’s as good as, if not better, than Assetto Corsa when it comes to drifting, others think it’s incredibly overrated.

On the flipside, rFactor fans will often argue that the game provides the best physics of all the fun in our list, alongside the best VR experience.

We advise giving the game a try with the free demo before forming your own opinion. Who knows, it might tick the right boxes for your needs!

Dash Dash World

Compatibility: Valve Index, HTC Vive, Meta/Oculus Rift/Quest

We’ve provided our fair share of realistic sim racers in this guide, but what about when you want to add a little more fun to your racing VR gaming experience? This is where Dash Dash World provides the perfect alternative.

Dash Dash World combines an exciting and unique VR experience and the entertainment factor of a modern-day Mario Kart.

Not only do you get the opportunity to drift in the game, but this colorful combat arcade racer brings incredible shooting and driving mechanics, too.

With a massive amount of content available, you have the option of an in-depth offline story mode or intense online multiplayer tournaments.

More than a trillion different customization combinations, over 100 hours of content within the story mode, eight-player online matchmaking, quests, challenges, and achievements will keep you coming back for more.

If you’re new to VR, the game also features motion sickness prevention if you’ve found this to be an issue in your VR gaming journey.

After a drastic overhaul from their 4.0 update in November, the game now features more content than ever, making it the perfect time to begin your Dash Dash Racing journey.

Best Sim Racing VR Headsets in 2024

As with everything, different people may prefer specific VR headset brands, so it may be worth deciding which headset is best for you. Think of it as the ‘Xbox vs PlayStation’ or ‘Apple vs Samsung’ argument!

However, there is one standout product on the market right now from Meta (formerly known as Oculus), and we don’t feel that their rivals, such as HTC, have caught up with a competitive offering for what you get for the money.

For that reason, here’s our personal ‘Drifted Choice’ recommendation for this year.

Drifted VR Headset Choice

Although the Meta Quest 2 (Oculus Quest 2) was our recommended headset of choice, Drifted fan “Guillaume” suggested that we upgrade to the HTC VIVE Pro 2. As you can see, it’s now become our new favorite – thanks again, Guillaume!

HTC VIVE Pro 2

The VIVE Pro 2 has become our new VR headset of choice due to its incredible resolution and field-of-view, providing an insane experience for any VR racing or drifting fan.

Those that have tried VR headsets in racing games will know how vital the field of view is because being able to see as much as possible is crucial, especially when drifting.

Alongside the impressive resolution and FOV, the VIVE Pro 2 also has an excellent 120Hz refresh rate, perfect for experiencing those high-speed moments to their full potential.

If you’re happy to spend a little extra, then we feel this is worth the additional cost, but if you’re looking to save some cash, our Runner-Up is also a fantastic choice, along with a smaller price tag.

Drifted VR Headset Runner Up

Several of our staff members use this Drifted headset of choice for online drift tandem sessions in Assetto Corsa, and we feel it remains the best value-for-money by far.

Meta Quest 2

Oculus brought several revolutionary headsets to the market, such as the Oculus Rift, Oculus Touch, the original Quest, and then the Quest 2.

For 2022, the company rebranded as ‘Meta.’ So, if you already own the Oculus Quest 2, don’t go out rushing to buy the Meta Quest 2, as the two are precisely the same headset, with the branding/name change being the only difference between the two.

Featuring an LCD-display with a 3664 x 1920 resolution, a 90hz refresh rate, and a field-of-view of 100-degrees, it’s the perfect setup for experiencing what Project CARS 2 has to offer without having to splash out big money.

The only downside for many gamers has been integrating a compulsory Facebook login to use the Meta Quest 2, which hasn’t gone down well with many enthusiasts.

As far as value-for-money goes, you’re going to struggle to get a better deal than the Meta Quest 2.

Facebook login aside, we’re sure this won’t leave you disappointed.

Our Premium VR Headset Choice

If you’ve got big bucks to spend and looking to build the ultimate sim-racing rig, we also have a superior premium offering, but it does come at a price.

Valve Index VR Full Kit

Valve Index has brought this incredible piece of kit to the market with a full AMOLED display, a maximum resolution of 2880 x 1600, a field-of-view of ~130 degrees, and a crazy refresh rate 120Hz, or 144Hz in experimental mode.

I’ve had the pleasure of using this setup once, and although it was mind-blowing, the Oculus Quest 2 is likely to be more than good enough for most everyday gaming needs.

How Much Does Sim Racing Cost?

As you can probably guess, this is similar to the ‘how long is a piece of string?’ question. It depends on how extreme you want to go with your build and what you already have.

For instance, here’s an idea of just how extreme things can get:

However, we haven’t got a million dollars burning a hole in our pockets, so let’s look at a couple of rational alternatives.

Drifted Wheel/Pedal Choice

We’ve had great success with the Thrustmaster TX wheel/pedal setup, and we’d highly recommend it for the price.

Although there are cheaper considerations out there on the market, such as the Logitech G920, we soon found ourselves opting for a superior setup, so we recommend jumping straight to the Thrustmaster TX.

Premium Wheel/Pedal Choice

If you’ve opted for the Valve Index, you’re probably going to be looking for the best wheel/pedal combo.

If that’s the case, then look no further than the Fanatec Podium.

It’s a serious piece of kit, with an eye-watering price tag, but it is the closest you’re going to get to experiencing real car driving.

Is it worth the money? Only you can decide. It’s on my dream wish list. One day!

VR Racing Games FAQ

Given the popularity of this guide, we’ve had VR racing game enthusiasts contacting us with our opinions on the subject, so we’ve created this section to cover some of the most frequently asked questions.

What are the best Oculus racing games?

Assetto Corsa is our top pick for drifting, but when it comes to racing, iRacing is often regarded as the ultimate choice, but it certainly comes at a price! If you’re not looking to splash the cash, a great budget-friendly Oculus racing game is Assetto Corsa Competizione.

What’s the best VR racing simulator?

iRacing is the ultimate racing simulator used by some of the best racing drivers worldwide. However, with a $ 110-a-year subscription charge, alongside an additional price tag of up to $14.95 for EACH car and track, it’s not for everyone! For that reason, we highly recommend checking out Assetto Corsa Competizione.

What’s the best VR driving simulator?

Depending on what you’re looking for in a VR driving simulator, we like the flexibility of Assetto Corsa the most, which features an incredibly comprehensive collection of incredible free mod upgrades. Dirt Rally 2.0 offers the chance to head off-road for the ultimate multi-surface challenge. In contrast, iRacing and Assetto Corsa Competizione offer fantastic options for racing fans at both ends of the budget scale.

Which Racing Games Support VR?

We conducted in-depth research to provide the best VR racing games on the current market, and all of the racing games in this guide are playable with a VR headset.

It’s simply a matter of determining which game works best for your requirements. Whether you’re looking for an in-depth rally sim, a sandbox racing game, or cruising car games, our list provides something for everyone.

Are Racing Games Good In VR?

It’s hard to emphasize how incredible racing games are in virtual reality.

Unless you’re lucky to have bottomless pockets, this is about as close as you’re going to get to be able to head to the racetrack at any time you wish!

Sure, it might not be a replacement for the real thing, but let’s not forget that some of the best professional race drivers refine their skills at home on their VR racing simulator.

Is There A VR Driving Simulator?

There are several games out there for those looking for a simulator experience.

iRacing is regarded as the ultimate sim racer, but its subscription pricing model makes it an expensive investment long-term.

Price tag aside, we feel it’s the best pick for VR sim racing.

Alternatively, VR racing games such as Assetto Corsa and Assetto Corsa Competizione provide incredible value if you’re on a smaller budget.

What Is The Most Realistic VR Racing Game?

In our opinion, iRacing wins again, with cheaper options such as Assetto Corsa, Assetto Corsa Competizione, and Automobilista 2 falling closely behind.

What Is The Best VR Drifting Game?

While it’s possible to drift in most of these VR racing games, there’s one that stands head and shoulders above the rest for us – Assetto Corsa.

Having stood the test of time, we don’t feel anything comes close to what Assetto Corsa offers when it comes to VR drifting.

With every drift car and aftermarket upgrade you can imagine available to download as third-party mods, we’ve been drifting in AC for many years, and the VR experience that the game offers still blows us away.

Conclusion

Virtual reality has already progressed leaps and bounds in recent years, and we feel as though there’s still plenty of room to make the experience even more incredible than it already is.

The inclusion of mixed reality has made things even more exciting, with the ability to merge both the real-world and virtual reality to provide a trippy combination!

As VR headsets continue to improve and the prices continue to fall, we feel that mass-adoption is closer than ever. We also believe that more developers will continue to focus on enhancing the true capabilities of what VR offers.

We feel that this is still the early stages of what sim racing truly has to offer, and we can’t wait to see what the future holds.

In this guide, we’ve explored what we feel are the greatest VR racing games available in the present day.

We hope we’ve covered everything you need to know, whether you’re looking to shave seconds off your lap time, scrape walls while drifting, or throw down Scandinavian flicks in your rally car!

So, there we have it! We hope that we’ve covered everything you could want to know about VR Racing Games in this guide.

If you’re looking to play Forza Horizon 5 in VR, we recommend checking our guide beforehand.

Thank you for reading our VR Racing Games guide.

If you enjoyed this article, please share it with the buttons at the bottom of your screen. If you’ve found this information useful, then please take a moment to share it with other sim racing enthusiasts. We appreciate your support.

Photography credits

We thank the following entities for the use of their photography in this article:

• F Z A on Flickr
• clucksworld on Flickr

The post Ultimate VR Racing Games Guide For 2024 first appeared on Drifted.com.

• Driftmotion Turbo Kit
• CXRacing Turbo Kit
• Turbonetics Turbo Kit
• Powerhouse Racing Turbo Kit
• SupraStore Pro Street Turbo Kit
• XSPower Turbo Kit
• Turbo Specialties Turbo Kit
• FASTWAYRACER Turbo Kit
• Jump to winners

In a hurry? Here is our 2JZGE Turbo Kit summary

Budget Choice	Drifted Choice	Premium Choice
XSPower Turbo Kit	CXRacing Turbo Kits	Powerhouse Racing (PHR) Turbo Kit
Buy Now	Buy Now	Buy Now

Introduction to the 2JZGE

Whether you’ve purchased a Toyota or a Lexus with the underrated 2JZ-GE engine under the hood, you’re probably already aware of what the 2JZ can achieve.

Some Toyotas that came with this powerful inline six include:

• Altezza AS300/Lexus IS300
• Aristo/Lexus GS300
• Crown/Toyota Crown Majesta
• Mark II/Toyota Chaser/Toyota Cresta
• Origin
• Progres

Sure, your 2JZ-GE isn’t going to feel like the much-loved 2JZ-GTE in stock form, but with an NA-T turbo upgrade, you’ll be amazed at how quickly and effortlessly you’ll be able to achieve some impressive power figures at a fraction of the cost.

The 2JZ-GE often gets overlooked for its more impressive sibling, but with the ever-rising prices of the 2JZ-GTE, it makes more sense than ever for the GE engine to get the turbocharged lovin’ that it deserves.

Thankfully, the 2JZ-GE is incredibly similar to the GTE, integrating the same rods and crankshaft, with the only discernable difference between the two powerplants falling to the choice of pistons.

So, despite being naturally aspirated, Toyota designed both 2JZ engines with forced induction in mind, and they’re both up there with the most robust stock blocks that money can buy.

Although the pistons are different, they’re still more than capable of handling respectable power figures, and it’s not until you go chasing huge numbers that you’ll maybe need to consider opting for forged pistons.

We’ve seen setups of up to 1,000 WHP achieved from the stock 2JZ-GTE bottom-end, and we’ve also witnessed a GE run a 9 ¼ sec quarter-mile from a motor with 220k miles on the clock!

Turbo Kits for the 2JZ-GE

Although there’s no shortage of turbo kits for the 2JZ-GE engine, it can get a little confusing when you’re looking at the options on the market, so we’ve compiled this guide to clarify which kit(s) will best suit your needs.

There’s an influx of cheap ‘Chinese’ knock-off kits on the market, and although these may work fine for some owners, we’re more interested in the companies committed to putting their names to their setup.

We’ll cover the full range of products that we feel are worth considering, covering all price points from budget to premium, to help you find the perfect NA-T turbo kit to help you make the most out of your currently underachieving 2JZ-GE engine.

2JZGE vs 2JZ-GTE Differences

Since you’re already reading this article, you’ll undoubtedly know about the legendary 2JZ-GTE, most notably found in the MKIV Toyota Supra of the 1990s.

This factory-turbocharged equivalent of the naturally-aspirated 2JZ-GE engine has earned legendary status mainly due to its vast tuning potential. It has arguably become the most desirable holy grail engine in the worldwide drifting and drag racing scenes.

One of the main differences between the two engines lies in compression. GE’s have a 10.0:1 compression ratio, compared to the 8.5:1 of the GTE, due to a thicker head gasket (.2mm for GE, 1.6mm for GTE) and lower-compression pistons in the GTE.

The GE manifold is designed to provide the most torque possible to compensate for the lack of forced induction, which assists in the lower bracket of the RPM band.

Both heads are slightly different, with the GTE having larger intake ports and the GE having larger exhaust ports, which has led some enthusiasts to be convinced that the GE head can flow better than the GTE head.

Additionally, other significant variations between the two engines include the injectors and airflow sensors, the ignition system, port spacing, and studs on the manifolds.

How Much Power Can The 2JZGE Handle?

Let’s get to the meaty stuff – how much power can these 2Js handle?

Since the 2JZ-GE runs at 10:1 compression, we don’t recommend going above 7-8 PSI of boost before you begin adjusting things like ignition timing. Let’s face it; you don’t want your Japanese masterpiece to boom because you got a little excited.

Instead, we always recommend an upgraded FMIC to get the most out of your setup immediately, especially if you intend to run more than 5-6 PSI.

Once you consider going over around 350-400 WHP, you’ll want to consider upgrading your fuelling systems, such as the pump and injectors.

The stock compression of the 2JZ-GE will also likely limit you to around 400-450 WHP reliably before you need to consider upgrades such as a thicker head gasket.

But, if you have big-power goals, there will unsurprisingly be much more to consider.

Although several owners have had 800 WHP from the stock rods and pistons for several years, we’d consider upgrading them as a precaution. Let’s be real, who wants to blow up their expensive engine?

2JZ-GE Turbo Kits

Although many owners opt to DIY their NA-T upgrade, there’s no question that the off-the-shelf kits on the market are far better suited for those less talented in the fabrication department!

With the wide range of options available, there’s a 2JZ-GE kit out there to fit every enthusiast’s requirements, and we’ll help you decide which one is best for you in this guide.

So, follow along as we take you on a guide through the best turbo kits available for this platform.

Driftmotion Turbo Kits

• Manufacturer: Driftmotion
• Fitment: Supra MK4 & SC300 (Custom mid-pipe required for other vehicles)
• Value for money:rating
• Purchase link: Driftmotion Turbo Kit

Our comment: Another popular offering to the market is Driftmotion with this good quality offering, which features Garrett internals.

We’ve found mixed opinions on this kit, with some owners stating that modifications were needed to ensure a perfect fit, which means it will not necessarily be a ‘bolt-on and go’ affair.

There are reports of a weak wastegate included in the kit, so it may be worth considering sourcing an alternative.

Despite many positive reports, when issues have arisen, some owners have found Driftmotion hard to contact for a resolution.

Overall, this provides plenty of reasonable, solid choices, and most feedback for Driftmotion has been positive.

They have various turbo options available, all the way up to 750whp. That’s plenty of power for even the most diehard gearheads out there!

It’s worth noting that these kits don’t include the FMIC or piping, so that will need to be considered.

Manufacturer description: “We’re confident that this is the best kit on the market for the money. A 4″ K&N filter is now included with the kit“!

“The downpipe included is a direct fit for a MK4 Supra or SC300 midpipe, for other vehicles a custom mid-pipe will be required to go from the downpipe to the catback. The kit will not fit a right hand drive vehicle without modification to the wastegate piping“.

Turbo Kit Features:

• Turbo with ceramic-coated exhaust housing and polished compressor housing
• All Garrett internals
• Blue anodized billet backplate
• Manifold
• Wastegate
• 4″ intake pipe
• Dump tube
• Fasteners
• Oil lines and fittings
• Gaskets
• Adaptor flanges for turbo and block oil lines

CXRacing Turbo Kits

• Manufacturer: CXRacing
• Fitment: GS300, IS300, SC300, Supra MK3, Supra MK4
• Value for money:rating
• Purchase link:
  CXRacing 98-05 Lexus GS300 GT35 turbo kit |
  98-05 Lexus IS300 turbo kit by CXRacing
  CXRacing 98-05 Lexus IS300 (No FMIC) turbo kit |
  CXRacing T70 91-00 Lexus SC300 turbo kit |
  GT35 91-00 Lexus SC300 turbo kit by CXRacing
  CXRacing 91-96 GS300, 97-00 Lexus GS300, 91-00 SC300 & 86-93 Supra MK3 Top Mount (No FMIC) T70 T4 turbo Kit |
  CXRacing 93-02 Supra MK4 GT35 turbo kit |
  93-02 Supra MK4 GT35 (No FMIC) turbo kit by CXRacing

Our comment: Frequently regarded as the best off-the-shelf bolt-on solution, CXRacing’s wide variety of off-the-shelf 2JZ-GE turbo kit options provides excellent quality at a fantastic price.

This kit features an impressively crafted manifold featuring good-quality welding alongside a highly-regarded intercooler and piping.

In addition, there are various turbo and fitment options to decide on the perfect setup for your needs.

Many owners have successfully run these kits long-term on high-mileage 2JZ-GE NA-T engines with nothing but praise.

Despite many negative remarks online regarding CXRacing’s products, they had a substantial overhaul in recent years and earned themselves an excellent reputation.

You will struggle to find a better all-rounder than the CXRacing kit for the quality, fitment, and price.

Manufacturer description: “This is CXRacing’s Newest Product for various applications“.

“All Parts Are Developed from Ground Up in Our R&D Center in USA, Designed and Built for Improved Performance Gains, with Excellent Fitment and Easy Installation“.

CXRacing Turbo Kit Features (Various options):

• Turbo (Various options)
• Intercooler (with Mounting Bracket)
• 44mm 8PSI Wastegate
• Air filter
• BOV
• V-Band Clamp
• Turbo Oil Line Kit
• Intercooler Piping Kit with Hoses & Clamps
• Manifold
• Downpipe
• MAF Adapter

Turbonetics Turbo Kit

• Manufacturer: Turbonetics
• Fitment: 01-05 Lexus IS300
• Value for money:rating
• Purchase link: Turbonetics Turbo Kit

Our comment: This turbo kit from Turbonetics is one of the OGs, and one of the earliest to cater to the 2JZ-GE market.

As with the other kits we discussed, although some owners have had success with it, there seem to be many reports of issues. For the price, we can’t justify the added value over the cheaper kits above.

We have also heard reports of the recently discontinued kit, so if you feel it is the right choice for your needs, we strongly advise checking this first.

Getting spare parts for a discontinued kit can become frustrating further down the line.

Although many owners have been happy with the Turbonetics kit, we think there are much better opportunities for the price on our list.

Manufacturer description: “Turbonetics Turbo Systems are for you, whether you have a four-cylinder sport compact or a V-8 muscle car, Turbonetics Turbo Systems include everything you need from fuel and ignition to piping and fittings for complete bolt-on turbo performance“.

“Turbonetics offers complete turbo systems – from air entry to exhausting to the catalyst. The Turbonetics Turbo System is a true O.E. bolt-on that does not require “hacking” in order to install“.

Turbonetics Turbo Kit Features:

• Ceramic Ball Bearing Turbocharger (T3/T4 Hybrid or Custom T04E)
• Spearco Intercooler System
• Powder-Coated Intercooler Piping
• Silicone Hose / T-Bolt Clamps
• Exhaust Manifold – high carbon cast-steel with ceramic coating
• Fuel / Timing Controller (electronic fuel/timing management system)
• Fuel Injectors
• “Evolution” Wastegate Assembly
• “Raptor” By-Pass / Blow Off Valve Assembly
• Mandrel-bent ceramic coated Downpipe with closed-loop wastegate discharge *Mandrel-bent ceramic coated Downpipe with closed-loop wastegate discharge
• Intake System with Air Filter
• All necessary Hardware, Hoses, and Fittings
• Free Case of Turbonetics TS-1 Synthetic Motor Oil

Powerhouse Racing Turbo Kits

• Manufacturer: Powerhouse Racing (PHR)
• Fitment: 93-98 Supra
• Value for money:rating
• Purchase link: Powerhouse Racing S23 Turbo Kit |
  Powerhouse Racing S45 Turbo Kit

Our comment: PHR is up there with the best for aftermarket turbo kits.

Yes, they indeed come at a price. But, for those who don’t mind spending a little extra money on premium products built to last, you will certainly not be disappointed.

Not only is the quality fantastic, but owners have noted how delighted they are with the power results and responsiveness of the setup.

If you’re looking for the ultimate 2JZ-GE turbo setup for your Supra, look no further than these incredible options from PHR.

Manufacturer description: “PHR is proud to offer these NA-T kits for the 93-98 Toyota Supra NA“.

“The S23 turbo kit features the Powerhouse Racing S23 Turbo manifold which features full stainless schedule 10 1.25″ runners and collector. Built all by hand by our master fabricators“.

Powerhouse Racing Turbo Kit Features:

• Your choice of Turbo
• S23 Manifold
• Full stainless downpipe/midpipe
• Tial 60mm wastegate
• Drop-Down Intercooler Pipe
• Air Intake
• Oil Feed
• Oil Return
• PHR Waterneck Rotator
• Dumptube
• All hardware and gaskets

SupraStore Pro Street Turbo Kit

• Manufacturer: SupraStore
• Fitment: Toyota Supra
• Value for money:rating
• Purchase link: SupraStore Pro Street Turbo Kit

Our comment: SupraStore has come through with another Supra-only 2JZ-GE kit (apologies, non-Supra owners!)

We’ve noticed many mixed opinions on these kits, with most owners speculating that they’re XSPower parts.

If this is the case, given that SupraStore doesn’t have the best of reputations when it comes to delivering the goods or customer service, we would be looking into either buying directly from XSPower or looking at CXRacing for a similar budget.

There are reports of owners who are pleased with the kit, but we recommend further research if you’re considering purchasing.

Manufacturer description: “Our ProSeries, the SupraStore.com 2JZGE (NA-T) Turbo Kit is fitted with only the best parts, period. ProSeries turbo kits are available in Stages (1-4) and also are available with various ProSeries manifold configurations: Divided Manifold, Un-Divided Manifold, Twin Scroll Manifold (dual-gate), Quick Spool Valve Manifold & T6 Manifold“.

“We looked at anything and everything from old school Japanese kits (outdated, horrible spooling turbos, expensive!!) to some competitors (no name brands and still expensive!) and were not satisfied, so we built our own 500HP 2JZ turbo kit with our specifications, Precision or Borg Warner Turbos, TiAL or Precision Wastegates, ProSeries Turbo Manifold, and the Titan Motorsports Oil Feed/Drain Set-Up Kit“.

SupraStore Pro Street Turbo Kit Features:

• ProSeriesTubular 2JZGE T4 304SS Stainless Turbo Manifold
• Wastegate Flange Pre-Welded to Manifold
• Precision 58MM journal-bearing turbocharger
• TiAL or Precision 38/39mm Waste Gate
• Titan Oil Feed & Return Set-Up Kit
• Direct Fit K&N Conical Air Filter
• TiAL or HKS Style BOV

XSPower Turbo Kit

• Manufacturer: XSPower
• Fitment: 01-05 Lexus IS300, 92-00 SC300 & 93-98 Toyota Supra
• Value for money:rating
• Purchase link: XSPower Turbo Kit

Our comment: XSPower’s kit is highly regarded within the budget 2JZ scene and has seen increasing popularity over the years, with owners racking up thousands of miles with very few issues.

Although this may initially seem far cheaper than the CXRacing kit, the price doesn’t include the FMIC piping.

Regardless, this is another fantastic, newly revamped kit to compete with CXRacing.

The XSPower kit could make a great option, especially if you are on a smaller budget.

Manufacturer description: “Your stock GE motor makes 180WHP on a good day. The stock GTE motor puts down about 285WHP if the stock twins are in great shape“.

“Install this XS-POWER 2JZ GE / GTE turbo kit and boost to 9PSI on stock internals, head gasket, and injectors. You’ll be putting down 330WHP. No need to open the motor or mess with the injectors or tranny at 9PSI, just run 93 Octane and a fuel tuning system“.

XSPower Turbo Kit Features:

• TOP Mount T4 Single 2JZGE stainless 321 turbo manifold set ( intake, tube, downpipe , manifold)
• Universal oil line kit (with oil feed, oil drain)
• 4 bolt 50mm wastegate (10 psi)
• T4 STAGE III UPGRADED TURBO .96 turbo charger (good for 450hp)
• 3″ V-band clamp

Turbo Specialties Turbo Kit

• Manufacturer: Turbo Specialties
• Fitment: 01-05 Lexus IS300
• Value for money:rating
• Purchase link: Turbo Specialties Turbo Kit

Our comment: Turbo Specialties enter our list with one of the most expensive options on our list.

Turbo Specialties launched one of the first aftermarket 2JZ-GE kits to market as the main competitor of the SRT (Swift Racing) turbo kit. However, SRT has since gone out of business.

Although the kit includes a well-reputed Garrett turbo, we’re not convinced that the T28R is the most efficient for getting the most out of your 2JZ-GE, and we feel there are more suitable options in our selection.

Combine this with the fact that most owners have mentioned the kit needing some adjustments to fit correctly; we can’t justify the cost compared to some of the substantially cheaper alternatives on the market.

Manufacturer description: “If you are looking for the ultimate in high performance – the extreme performance packages are for you. Providing the maximum horsepower for the very discriminating and still providing dependability for daily driving“.

“Incorporating all the high performance equipment in the superior performance packages, these extreme packages all include an intercooler, pop off valve, extra injectors, and injection control unit, (The Brain)“.

“This offers complete control for your system, increased fuel delivery, and cooler temperature gas air mixture for better burning. The addition of this system can add as much as an additional 20 percent increase in horsepower above and beyond the superior turbo packages“.

Turbo Kit Features:

• Ex.Manifold, Ex.Outlet, Down Pipe, Hardwares, Actuator Bracket
• Air Intake System, Intercooler, Charge Pipe
• Oil Return Hose, Oil Pressure Sus Stainless Braided Hose
• Cold Water Stainless Braided Hose
• Icu601 Box, Ip201, Fpr140
• Bp9901 Blow Off Valve
• T28R Turbo – Ball Bearing
• All hardware, pressure lines, hoses, clamps, and couplers included

FASTWAYRACER Turbo Kit

• Manufacturer: FASTWAYRACER
• Fitment: 93-98 Toyota Supra MKIV, 92-00 SC300, 93-06 GS300, 01-05 IS300
• Value for money:rating
• Purchase link: FASTWAYRACER Turbo Kit

Our comment: It’s certainly not every day that you stumble upon a turbo kit for this price brand new, but FASTWAYRACER has pulled it out of the bag with one of the cheapest options on our list.

Unfortunately, there is very little to go on regarding feedback on this system, so we highly recommend checking that it suits your needs before proceeding.

The universal piping on the intercooler is one of the first things to get our alarm bells ringing. You’ll immediately need to consider some significant adjustments to get that fitting correctly.

FASTWAYRACER has a reputation for providing poor-fitting parts; unfortunately, as far as we can see, this kit is no exception.

With that said, you certainly get a lot of kit for your money, but we wouldn’t expect it to be premium quality.

Manufacturer description: “This is a perfect turbo kit for upgrading your car and get more boost. Your car will gain 130-180HP if you set at 7-15PSI. Customers require to upgrade the fuel pump, injector and ECU to tune the car if you set at higher PSI“.

“This kit can max up to 550HP. We offer 90 days warranty for this turbo kit if it is installed by ase certified mechanic!

Turbo Kit Features:

• GT35 T4 .68AR turbo charger
• Stainless steel turbo manifold
• 3.0” V-band clamp
• Universal 3.0” polished aluminum piping kit
• Universal 30.5”x12”x3.0” front mount intercooler
• SSQV turbo blow-off valve
• 40mm 4 bolt wastegate
• 10AN oil drain/return line kit
• Oil feed line
• Fuel pressure regulator
• Turbo boost controller
• Oil catch tank
• Pen style turbo timer
• 2” boost gauge + 2” air/fuel gauge + oil pressure gauge + rpm gauge

Our winners for the best 2JZGE Turbo Kit

Now that you know what 2JZ-GE turbo kits are on offer let us pick out our winners:

Our Drifted Choice goes to CXRacing

With a massive selection of turbo kits available for 2JZ-GE owners, CXRacing takes the Drifted choice award in this guide.

Our 2JZ-GE Turbo Kit winners are the CXRacing Turbo Kits

Although some owners will tell you that CXRacing products aren’t of outstanding quality, the company has had a massive revamp in recent years. We’ve witnessed hundreds of delighted CXRacing turbo kit owners from across the tuning scene.

They won’t compete with the much higher-budget Premium winner, but they certainly provide excellent quality, fitment, and reliability for the price.

CXRacing Turbo Kit

Our Best Premium 2JZGE Turbo Kit Award goes to Powerhouse Racing (PHR)

We certainly can’t question that PHR deserves the premium award in our guide.

Our Premium choice is the Powerhouse Racing (PHR) Turbo Kits

They may well be outside the budget for many enthusiasts, but for those of you who don’t mind spending the extra cash for a beautifully-crafted long-term setup, we have no doubt you’ll be delighted with your decision.

This is the king of off-the-shelf 2JZ-GE turbo kits, offering two kits, which are comprehensively customizable to suit your highly-refined needs.

Powerhouse Racing (PHR) Turbo Kit

Our Budget 2JZGE Turbo Kit Award goes to XSPower

The XSPower kit provides a great alternative to the CXRacing turbo kit that took our Drifted Choice award.

Our Budget choice is the XSPower Turbo Kit

Many happy owners have had excellent long-term results from the XSPower kit; however, you will need to consider the additional intercooler purchase.

We prefer the CXRacing kit after their brand overhaul, but the XSPower kit is also well worth considering for those with a smaller budget for your turbo upgrade.

XSPower Turbo Kit

Thank you for reading our 2JZGE Turbo Kit guide

An excellent range of turbo kits is available on the market for 2JZ-GE owners, whatever your budget may be. And that’s all that keeps you from achieving massive performance potential like this.

We hope we’ve helped narrow the difficult decision when choosing the perfect kit for your needs.

If you feel we’ve missed any options or any new kits are later released to the market, feel free to drop us a line, and we’ll take a look.

Photography credits

We want to thank the following sources for the use of their images:

• Driftmotion
• eBay
• DC Auto Parts
• SupraStore
• Vivid Racing

If you enjoyed this article, please share it with the buttons at the side and bottom of your screen. Find this information helpful? If so, please post a link to it on your 2JZ-GE-related online communities. We appreciate your support.

The post Ultimate 2JZ-GE Turbo Kit Guide first appeared on Drifted.com.

• How long can a car sit without being driven?
• Preparing your car for storage
• Starting a car for the first time after storage
• Conclusion

Introduction

As gearheads, we all love to drive our cars at every possible opportunity. But, there are many reasons that cars can sometimes go a long time without being run, and it can understandably leave many car owners concerned about their pride and joy.

After the Coronavirus pandemic swept the world, unexpected lockdowns left car owners forced to abandon their vehicles, some for months on end.

As you’ve probably guessed, car manufacturers didn’t build their vehicles to sit still in one place for a long period of time. Sadly, this was the fate of many cars during the social distancing era.

Since they’re used to being driven each day, there are quite a few aspects of a vehicle that can quickly deteriorate if left unattended.

Alternatively, you may have finally picked up that drift car you’ve always dreamed of, but unfortunately, it’s not road legal, and you’re likely to have to store the car for months on end until you can next get to the track.

If you’re considering your first drift car, then make sure you take a look at our Best Drift Cars For Beginners guide.

Whatever your situation may be, we’ve covered it all in this guide, and we’ll break down your questions to ensure that you’re confident that your car will be kept in optimal condition when it gets stored for an extended period of time, be it weeks, months, or even years.

How long can a car sit without being driven?

There’s a wide range of factors to consider when it comes to this question.

For example, some vehicles could be left outside in a country that snows most of the year, where others might be under direct sunlight, neither of which are ideal scenarios.

As a rough guide, we always advise not to allow any more than two weeks to pass without driving your car if you expect it to start again.

However, if you carry out the recommendations in our guide, you’ll be able to store your car for months or even years with minimal issues.

We’re going to take a look at the primary considerations and best practices to consider if you intend to keep your car in tip-top condition.

Frequently starting a stored car

A popular myth that has seemingly passed on through the generations is that it’s a good idea to start a car that is parked to ensure the battery doesn’t go flat and to keep the engine components moving.

Although there is a partial element of truth here with regard to keeping components moving, idling a stored car isn’t the ideal practice. Doing so can lead to condensation build-up within the engine, eventually causing long-term damage.

Ideally, you want to take the car out for a 15-20 minute drive every two weeks, achieving speeds of over 50mph to assure that all of the components and fluids have the chance to reach optimal temperature, and also to charge the battery.

We understand that driving the car isn’t always possible, so we’ll look at everything to be considered when you’re planning for long-term storage in our next section.

Preparing your car for storage

One of your first considerations will always need to be where you decide to store the car. For example, some countries and areas have strict laws when it comes to storing your vehicle in a public place.

If you intend to leave it parked on the street, you could well wake up one morning to find your car is no longer there. Obviously, none of us want that to happen, right? So, depending on your location, it could be worth mentioning your intentions to your neighbors to ensure they don’t assume it’s left abandoned.

Another thing you’ll need to consider is the location. Leaving your car out in an open space will not only make it a potential temptation for thieves but excessive daylight exposure, particularly in hot areas, can cause paintwork issues.

Not to mention the issues that can arise if a disgruntled bird decides to offload onto your car, which can cause serious paintwork issues when left for a prolonged time.

It’s always best to store a car in a clean, dry, shaded environment, preferably off the road, and in a safe, enclosed space wherever possible.

Battery maintenance during storage

If your car is likely to be in long-term storage, and you won’t be needing the alarm, one of the best measures is to disconnect the battery from the car to ensure it doesn’t get drained.

When your car gets frequently driven, the battery charge gets maintained by the alternator, which is why the battery in a daily driven vehicle rarely goes flat.

Once your car’s in storage, the battery you’ve trusted for years could die in a matter of weeks or maybe even days, particularly in cold weather, due to lack of charge.

Trickle Chargers

If you’re looking to maintain your alarm functions, the best alternative is a battery trickle charger/maintainer.

These are extremely common among enthusiasts who store their cars long-term, and assuming you have an electricity source nearby; a trickle charger provides the perfect solution to keeping your battery topped up for long periods.

The difference between a trickle charger and a generic car battery charger is that the trickle charger sends the minimal amount of constant electricity supply to maintain the perfect battery life.

We’ve covered the best products on the market in our Best Car Battery Maintainer guide.

Our ‘Drifted Choice’ was the CTEK Car Battery Charger.

However, if you have a little extra cash to spare, the Schumacher SC1309 is a fantastic choice. The SC1309 not only charges the battery, but is also capable of jump-starting the car, and features advanced diagnostic testing. It’s an extremely convenient all-in-one tool to have around.

If you allow your car’s battery to go dead, not only is it an inconvenience to get it going again, but it can also leave your alarm blaring when you least expect it.

As you probably guessed, luck would have it that this typically happens middle of the night, which certainly won’t go down well with your neighbors who have been understanding of you parking up your car until now!

Additional complications can come with other features, such as remote locking, which no longer works, and your radio is likely to forget its code, which can be a pain to find, and you may even end up having to pay for a replacement.

For these reasons, it’s a no-brainer to get yourself a trickle charger/battery maintainer before long-term storage.

Preparing your tires for storage

Since cars are pretty damn heavy and the tires are the only component that comes in contact with the ground, they often begin to suffer over long periods.

The dreaded ‘flat spots’ on your tires can occur in just a matter of weeks, and this can cause permanent damage to the tires, which could potentially lead to a hefty repair bill that we can prevent.

If you have no way of moving the car, then the best practice you can do before storage is to ensure that the tires get inflated to the manufacturer’s recommended pressures. We would then recommend that you frequently check them every couple of weeks to ensure they haven’t deflated.

You may have seen that some car owners will leave their cars on axle stands or car ramps when leaving their vehicles for long periods. This is a great way of minimizing tire damage during storage.

Other owners may opt to move the car several meters every few weeks to avoid flat-spotting.

You can also buy car dollies, which will keep the tires on a rounded surface. When using these, we would still frequently check the pressures to ensure they don’t begin cracking.

You can check out our Best Car Dollies guide here to take a look at the best options on the market.

Preparing your bodywork for storage

Before your car goes into storage, make sure that it has a thorough wash, and preferably a paintwork correction and wax, too.

Doing so will undoubtedly be worth your time when it comes to ensuring the paint gets kept in prime condition.

It’s also an excellent opportunity to consider removing the wheels and having a thorough clean in the arches/wheel wells to ensure there’s no dirt, salt, or other contaminants that could potentially cause rust, leading to some major damage.

If you’re preserving a classic car or particularly a Japanese import, it may be worth looking at getting the car professionally undersealed so that you can ensure it stands its best chances against the elements long-term.

Once you’ve given the car a thorough clean and allowed it to completely dry, we recommend purchasing yourself a decent car cover, particularly if you don’t have a garage or a similar sheltered storage location.

Alternatively, you can get some long-term storage solutions such as a Carcoon. These not only keep the car sheltered and dry, but they also maintain the battery and provide constant air circulation, which is extremely important for our next section.

Preventing rust during car storage

The arch-enemy of every car enthusiast is the dreaded rust. This is something you should try to avoid at all costs.

Rust is another reason why it’s so important to choose a suitable storage location for your car. A dry, well-ventilated area is always the best way to prevent it from occurring.

Assuming you have followed the recommendations in our ‘Preparing your bodywork for storage’ section, you would have already carried out a thorough cleaning of areas like the wheel arches.

Wheel areas, as well as tight nooks and crannies on the car, are often liable to rust away once your vehicle is left standing, especially if you have road salt and grime leftover in your wheel arches from the winter months.

These reasons are why it’s vital to prepare the car before storage, and then ensure it gets kept in the driest, warmest, and most well-ventilated area as possible.

You’ll also want to consider the ground that you park your car on.

If you parked on grass, for example, then that is likely to absorb a lot of moisture overnight and on rainy days, which will eventually begin to erode your car’s metalwork.

Avoiding condensation issues and mold build-up inside the car

Preventing mold growth is essential if you don’t want your car to smell like rotten vegetables when you take it out of storage.

Mold can often become a common issue when a car is left parked up, and there are several ways to ensure prevention.

Firstly, parking the car in a shaded area, as we have advised previously, will help.

Mold typically builds up when the interior of a vehicle has been regularly exposed to extreme hot and cold temperatures, so keeping intense sunlight off it will help mold build-up, and also prevent paint damage.

You can also consider purchasing some re-usable car dehumidifier packs, which will absorb the moisture. Just remember to keep an eye on them to see if they need recharging occasionally.

Best fuel practices when storing a car long-term

It’s always a good idea to give your car a full tank of gasoline before storing it short or mid-term.

A full tank of gas helps prevent condensation build-up, so you can have the peace of mind that the car will be at its best when it comes to taking it out of hibernation.

If you’re storing the car mid-term, then you can also consider buying a fuel stabilizer along the lines of STA-BIL, which keeps your fuel fresh for up to two years.

For those of you that are carrying out a long-term build or know you won’t be driving the car for several years, it may well be worth removing your car’s gas tank and keeping it completely dry to eliminate any potential issues.

Should I change the vehicle’s fluids before long-term storage?

Although it might seem strange to do a fresh oil change before long-term storage, it’s definitely in your best interests – this also applies to your coolant, gearbox, power steering, and brake fluids, too.

Dirty fluids are likely to carry contaminants, which can cause a headache in the long-term, so it’s always best to know that your car’s filled with fresh fluids for peace of mind.

Should I engage the parking brake?

We don’t recommend engaging your parking brake for long-term storage.

With time, your brakes can end up rusting, which can cause the brakes to fuse to the drum or rotor, leaving you stranded when you desperately want to take the car out of hibernation.

Keeping the e-brake activated can also stretch the cable, which will be another inconvenience to resolve.

Storing your car on axle stands, or putting a wheel chock or brick around the tires is a far better solution to ensuring that it doesn’t move.

If you’re planning on leaving the car to sit for short to mid-term periods, then it’s recommended to leave it in a low gear.

Just be sure to remember to engage the clutch when you start it up again, or it might end up launching into your neighbors’ car, which won’t go down too well.

Maintaining belts and hoses during storage

Your vehicle’s rubber components, such as belts and hoses, can often dry out and crack as they deteriorate with age.

It’s common for drivers to neglect their routine belt and hose inspection, but without being used regularly, these can often deteriorate quicker than expected.

If your car has is stored for several years, particularly in warmer regions, it may be worth considering a belt and hose replacement before you get it back on the road.

If you’re not planning to replace the hoses, you’ll want to keep an eye out for any leaks or cracks after your first few drives to ensure you’re not losing fluid. Otherwise, this can be a costly mistake later if it goes unchecked.

Eliminating the rodents

It’s not uncommon that owners have come back to their cars after long-term storage to find that it’s transformed into a hotel for the local wildlife.

Although the idea may be amusing, the truth is that mice and other furry animals can cause significant damage to many areas of your car.

From chewing wires to enjoying your cozy carpet, rats will grab just about anything they can to craft the perfect nest.

Before you start your car for the first time, make sure you’ve checked any areas where rodents may be hiding – this includes not only the interior, but also the engine bay, and maybe even the exhaust.

If you fail to do so, then belts might not be the only thing squealing when you do get around to firing her up again!

Starting a car for the first time after storage

Taking a car out of storage is not as simple as turning the key and driving it out. There are several things you’ll want to be sure of before you get around to starting your car after its hibernation.

Firstly, check the car for any leaks. Although a gigantic oil spill on the floor is noticeable, other leakages might be quite so easy to detect, so it’s best to check all your hoses for damage.

Next, check all of your fluid levels to ensure they’re still nicely topped up. Depending on the length of time you’ve left the car, it may be an ideal time to carry out a change of all the fluids to be on the safe side.

While you’re changing the fluids, it’s always worth carrying out a filter and plug change, along with anything your engine consumes regularly.

If your car’s only standing for a few days, weeks, or months, we would expect the fuel to be okay, especially if you followed our advice and filled it with a full tank beforehand.

However, if it’s been a couple of years without additives, it may be worth thoroughly flushing the fuel system to get rid of any sludge deposits and ensure that no ugly problems surface.

Check that no rodents or pests have buried themselves in your car, or even worse, chewed through your wiring.

And if the vehicle in question is a convertible, we recommend thoroughly checking the top for holes before taking it out of its slumber. You don’t want to be surprised when the heavens open up!

If you’ve disconnected your battery, now is the time to reconnect it. If you’ve parked the car in gear, this is also the time to ensure that you’ve got your clutch down after leaving it in gear.

What’s Next?

After you’ve checked all these, we’re happy to say that you’re ready to start her up!

Hopefully, at this point, your motor will begin roaring back to life. If not, we’ll keep our fingers crossed for you that it’ll be something as simple as a dead battery.

If this is the case, your first port of call should be something like these rechargeable, battery-powered car jump starters which are always a convenient device to have on-hand, and they’re surprisingly reasonable, too.

Whether she’s started the first time, or you’ve managed to resolve the issues, it’s time to take her for a spin and remember why you never got rid of your pride and joy.

Before you set off, let’s just go around the car and check that the tire has all maintained their recommended pressures and that there aren’t any flat spots.

After that, you’re good to go. Leave a couple of minutes for the fluids to get circulating again, then remember to take it easy as you head off – this isn’t the time for wrapping it around a lamppost!

As you drive off carefully, be sure to test the brakes continually, and keep increasing the intensity to ensure that you remove any potential surface-rust that may have built upon the disks, and allow the pads to get bedded-in again.

Conclusion

We hope we’ve covered everything you need to know in our guide, whether you’re only looking to start your car after it’s been left still for a few weeks, or you’re finally getting your long-term project back on the road.

It’s a fantastic feeling to get your car back on the road finally, and we’re sure that if you’ve followed the recommendations in our guide, you’ll have many miles of happy motoring ahead.

Well, maybe after a few hiccups. After all, cars are never straightforward – especially drift cars!

If all else fails with getting your car started, we recommend checking out Madalin Stunt Cars 3 for endless free online gaming fun.

Thank you for reading our How Long Can A Car Sit Without Being Driven? guide.

If you enjoyed this article, then please share it with the buttons at the side and bottom of your screen. If you’ve found this information useful, then please take a moment to share it with other motoring enthusiasts. We appreciate your support.

Photography credits

We thank the following entities for the use of their photography in this article:

• Aryan Beezadhur on Pixabay

The post How Long Can a Car Sit Without Being Driven?  first appeared on Drifted.com.

• A brief history of Toyota’s GR series
• 2GR-FE Engine Specs
• Which cars came with the 2GR-FE?
• Differences Between the 2GR-FE and 2GR-FSE
• 2GR-FE Upgrades and Tuning
• 2GR-FE Common Issues
• What’s Next for Toyota’s 2GR Engine?
• Conclusion

In a hurry? You can click on a particular section within this article. Otherwise, scroll down as we look at Toyota’s 2GR-FE engine.

To whet your appetite, here is a video of a full carbon fiber-bodied, supercharged 2GR-FE powered Lotus Evora!

Introduction

Having already covered some of Toyota’s most common engine platforms, such as the 1UZ and the 2JZ in our guides, we opted to look at one of their modern offerings, this time with the lesser-known 2GR-FE.

It certainly may not be the first engine swap that comes to mind for many car enthusiasts, but the 2GR-FE has gained notorious popularity within certain scenes. It has become among the most popular choices for Toyota MR2 and midship Lotus owners.

In the modern-day, where manufacturers aim for smaller displacement engines whilst generating as much power as possible with forced induction, the 2GR has maintained the much-loved traditional route.

Its 3.5L six-cylinder all-aluminium design helps to keep the weight down, which makes it a popular choice for small, light cars.

Check out this fascinating exploded animated video showing exactly how the 2GR-FE works:

Given its naturally aspirated design, you probably assume it comes with disappointing power figures. However, with a reported output of 295-314hp and 248-260ft/lb torque being produced in stock form, it’s certainly capable of shifting!

Not only is it light with an impressive amount of power to match, but it’s also earned notoriety for its reliability and is undoubtedly an engine built to last.

We will look at this underrated powerplant in our guide and provide you with everything you’ll need to know. Whether you’re looking to carry out an engine swap or purchase a car with the 2GR sitting snug in the bay waiting to be used to its full potential, we’ve got you covered!

A brief history of Toyota’s GR series

Let’s take a look at the history of Toyota’s GR engine series:

1GR-FE

First released in 2002 for the Toyota 4Runner/Hilux Surf as well as the Land Cruiser Prado, the 1GR-FE is a 4.0L engine designed for longitudinal mounting in both RWD and 4WD vehicles.

With an output of 236hp and 266ft/lb torque in its original stock form, it utilized Toyota’s VVT-i variable cam timing system on the intake cam and a compression ratio of 10.0:1. Its service weight, including fluids, is 166kg (366lbs).

In a later revision, they took the power output to an impressive 285hp and 289ft/lb torque with the addition of Dual VVT-i timing.

Both revisions are still being used today, with some minor alterations on the VVT-I engine, which is still used in the Toyota Hilux.

With the Hilux being the only car to still use the traditional VVT-i, over seven models in the Toyota/Lexus family are still running the dual-VVT-i version in the present day.

Toyota Racing Development (TRD) produced a supercharger kit for the 1GR-FE, available on the TRD models of the Tacoma, 4Runner, and FJ Cruiser, but this was later discontinued.

2GR-FE

For the 2004 model year, the 2GR-FE was released to the market, and unlike the 1GR, the 2GR was created for transverse mounting.

With Toyota opting for a 3.5L displacement this time, the bore from the 1GR-FE remains at 94mm, but the stroke is reduced to 83mm from 95mm.

Output for these engines varied depending on the vehicle, so it’s worth checking if you’re looking to source one. Power figures were generally quoted as between 295-314hp with 248-260ft/lb torque.

Similarly to the 1GR-FE, the 2GR-FE features an open-deck cast aluminium alloy cylinder block, and spiny-type cast iron cylinder liners. Inside there’s a forged steel crankshaft with five counterweights and forged connecting rods.

The valves are driven by roller-follower rocker arms, low friction roller bearings, and a unique concave cam lobe design to increase valve lift over the traditional timeless lifter-type system of the 1GR. This increases the overall cylinder head height to accommodate the slightly taller roller rocker system.

Each cylinder head is comprised of three pieces. The valve cover, the camshaft sub-assembly housing, and the cylinder head sub-assembly, are all made of aluminium alloy.

As with the later 1GR-FE engine, they have utilized the modern Dual VVT-I system again. This helps to increase the power and torque whilst still managing to maintain ideal efficiency.

The 2GR is 3kg lighter than the 1GR, with a service weight of just 163kg (395lb).

Several superchargers were created for the 2GR-FE, and Toyota Racing Development (TRD) once again offered its version in the 2007-2009 TRD Aurion. Lotus utilized the supercharged 2GR-FE in their Evora S and Exige S, and Bolwell is still using their Sprintex supercharged 2GR-FE in the present day on the Nagari 300 models.

2GR-FSE

The 3.5L 2GR-FSE engine was released in 2005 and is most commonly found in the JDM Toyota and Lexus models.

This updated version features Toyota’s D-4S twin injection system, combining direct and traditional port injection. Direct injection lowers the tendency to knock and increases performance by reducing the charge intake temperature.

Twin injection typically requires separate low and high-pressure fuel systems. Still, Toyota worked around this with new cylinder heads that featured high-pressure direct fuel injectors positioned at the intake valves’ outer side.

Given its ability to provide better cooling by using these methods, they increased the compression ratio up to 11.8:1, which meant that the 2GR-FSE engine could produce 304-314hp at 377-380ft/lb torque in stock form.

With these additions, the weight increased to 174kg (384 lbs) but would become a highly appreciated engine, earning itself a position in Ward’s 10 Best Engines list for 2006, 2007, 2008, and 2009.

There was only one Supercharged variant of the 2GR-FSE, found in the 2009 Toyota Mark X +M Supercharger, capable of producing 355hp!

2GR-FKS

The 2GR-FKS was the evolution of the 2GR-FSE and the most recent in the GR engine family. It was released to the market for the 2015 model year.

Keeping with the 3.5-liter V6, this succeeded the 2GR-FSE in their Lexus cars before also finding its way under the hood of several modern-day Toyotas.

Featuring the latest in Toyota’s technologies, the 2GR-FKS can switch from Otto to an Atkinson cycle to improve fuel economy, thanks to the VVT-iW on the intake camshafts. This combines the D-4S system from the 2GR-FSE with the simulated on-demand Atkinson cycle.

Several changes were made, including the coil-on-plug ignition system and the exhaust manifolds, which were integrated into the cylinder heads, and the EGR circuit is now cooled.

Once again, various power figures were achieved for this engine depending on the model, with the Tacoma producing just 278hp at 265ft/lb torque, yet the Lexus RX 350 capable of a far more respectable 295hp and 267ft/lb torque.

The Lexus IS350 and GS350 win this time, though, producing 311hp at 280ft/lb torque.

Toyota later released a 2GR-FXS model, a hybrid version of the 2GR-FXS, found in the Lexus RX 450h and the Toyota Highlander.

If you want to know more about the GR family, there’s also the 3GR, 4GR, 5GR, 6GR, 7GR, and 8GR! We may create separate guides for these engines in the future. However, for now, we will move on to the specs of the 2GR-FE.

2GR-FE Engine Specs

Featuring an open-deck V6 design with an all-aluminium cylinder block and cylinder heads, which helped save weight, increasing fuel economy. Toyota incorporated its DOHC design alongside 4-valves per cylinder, providing increased power and efficiency.

The 3.5 L (3,456 cc) 2GR’s open deck does wonders for the cooling efficiency, whilst the dual VVT-i (Variable Valve Timing with intelligence) system increases the power and torque. Later updates to the engine also utilized the new direct fuel injection system, allowing for increased power gains.

• Power figures: Output for these engines varied depending on the vehicle, so it’s worth checking if you’re looking to source one. Power figures were reported to be between 295-315 hp (227-236 kW) with 248-260 ft/lb torque.
• Materials: The 2GR-FE features an open-deck cast aluminium alloy cylinder block and cylinder head.
• Service weight: 163 kg (395lb).
• Stroke: 83mm
• Cylinder Bore: 94mm
• Compression ratio: 10.8:1, 11.8:1, 12.5:1 13:1.

Which cars came with the 2GR FE?

Although it’s not one of the most commonly found swaps, the 2GR-FE has frequently found itself being used for a wide variety of purposes. It has become a popular choice among various generations of MR2 owners looking to modernize their power.

Given that Lotus fitted supercharged variations to their Exige S and Evora S models, it proves how well suited this can be for lighter mid-engine cars.

Some popular Japanese vehicle models that utilize this engine include the Toyota Sienna minivan, The Toyota Venza,  the Toyota Harrier and The Toyota Avalon. We have included a complete list of vehicles down below.

VVT-i engine cars:

• 2002-2009 Toyota 4Runner / Hilux Surf (GRN210/215)
• 2007-2011 Toyota Land Cruiser (GRJ200)
• 2002-2009 Toyota Land Cruiser Prado (GRJ120/121/125)
• 2004-2015 Toyota Tacoma (GRN225/245/250/265/270)
• 2005-2015 Toyota Hilux (GGN10/20)
• 2005-2006 Toyota Tundra (GSK30)
• 2006-2009 Toyota Tundra (GSK50/51)
• 2005-2015 Toyota Fortuner (GGN50/60)
• 2006-2009 Toyota FJ Cruiser (GSJ10/15)
• 2015-present Toyota Hilux

Dual VVT-i engine cars:

• 2009-present Toyota 4Runner (GRN280/285)
• 2009-2017 Toyota FJ Cruiser
• 2010-present Toyota Tundra (GSK50/51)
• 2012-present Toyota Land Cruiser
• 2012-present Lexus GX 400 (GRJ150)
• 2012-2017 Toyota Aurion (GSV50)
• 2015-2017 Toyota Alphard/Vellfire (GGH30/35)
• 2006-2019 Toyota Estima/Previa/Tarago (GSR50/55)
• 2014-present Toyota Land Cruiser 70
• 2015-present Toyota Fortuner
• 2009-present Toyota Land Cruiser Prado (GRJ150/150R/155)

Differences Between the 2GR-FE and 2GR-FSE

There’s no doubt that the 2GR-FE is an impressive lump capable of far more power than it left the factory with, so why is the 2GR-FSE often seen as the superior alternative?

1. Twin Injection

With the 2005 launch of the successor to the 2GR-FE engine, the 2GR-FSE, the main addition between the two was the D-4S twin injection system. This combined both direct injection with traditional port injection. The inclusion of these two components not only provided increased power but also improved the economy at the same time.

In a world driven by the need to keep up with continuously tightening emissions laws, we’re all for manufacturers squeezing more power whilst also keeping the emissions lower, especially if it doesn’t involve going down the soul-destroying battery route!

Direct injection engines usually require an in-engine mechanism, such as swirl pots, to increase air turbulence in the engine. Still, in the FSE port, injection has been included to improve the air-fuel mixture inside the cylinder.

This is achieved by a dual-fan spray pattern for the new Toyota injector designed specifically for this engine. This gives off a dual-fan spray pattern perpendicular to the piston travel with wide dispersion in the cylinder. This aids the air/fuel mixture, improving power, efficiency, and emissions.

2. Weight

The FSE is heavier than the 2GR-FE (174kg vs 163kg), and both have been quoted as capable of producing up to 314hp (360 Nm), so the FE is seemingly the winner when it comes to the power-to-weight ratio.

They’re both undoubtedly fantastic engines, with the FSE being the more impressive choice. There’s certainly a valid reason that the 2GR-FSE found itself on the Ward’s 10 Best Engines list for four consecutive years.

If you’re unsure which one suits you best, chances are, depending on your location, that the 2GR-FE will be the far more convenient option when it comes to sourcing.

With the FE, it was traditionally found in cars that will be far cheaper on the current market, a lot of which were available in the U.S. With the FSE, you’re mostly limited to the higher-end Lexus and Toyota models, most of which were purely sold on the JDM market, such as the Toyota Mark X.

2GR FE Upgrades and Tuning

With power figures of up to 314hp quoted from the 2GR-FE, it’s certainly not a slow, naturally aspirated engine in stock form, but its potential certainly doesn’t end there.

Not only are there convenient upgrades to unleash even more power, but it’s also a highly reliable engine when upgraded, provided it’s well-maintained and tuned correctly.

Although trying to squeeze more power out of the engine in stock form is likely to be expensive with little power gain for the money, you can buy uprated pistons and camshafts, along with breathing mods such as cold air intakes and a full-exhaust system.

With tuning, you can expect to achieve a maximum of around 320-330hp with these upgrades depending on the engine’s power output from stock.

Forced Induction

If you’re like us, and you’re looking for real gains for your money, supercharger kits are likely to be the best option off-the-shelf. TRD and HKS have developed kits for the 2GR, and with stock internals, this should enable you to achieve more than 350hp.

If you’re not looking to run an off-the-shelf TRD or HKS kit, the ROTREX superchargers are also commonly used and can safely run around 6psi of boost, which will see gains of around 40hp and 40ft/lb torque on a stock engine.

Of course, further power gains are waiting after that with the usual breathing modifications such as an air filter and exhaust.

If that’s not enough, you can consider upgrading the supercharger, throttle valve, injectors, pistons, and engine management. You’re likely to run into considerable costs with doing so, but it’ll undoubtedly be a solid platform to achieve impressive numbers.

Turbocharging is also an option, and we’ve heard of over 800hp+ being produced using a stock bottom-end 2GR with extensive supporting modifications on a twin-turbo setup running 18psi of boost, which is highly impressive!

Don’t believe us? Then, have a listen to this tuned 2GR-FE powered Toyota MR2

2GR FE Common Issues

There’s no doubt that the 2GR-FE is a testament to the solid, reliable engines which the Japanese are notorious for creating, and it had very few significant problems during its lifetime.

Many owners have reported over 200,000 miles of trouble-free motoring from a well-maintained engine, and since it uses a timing chain, you won’t need to worry about replacing the timing belt frequently.

Despite its reliability, nothing is perfect, and we’ve had to dig deep to find some problems that you may want to look out for when purchasing.

1. Oil Leaks

If you’re noticing an oil leak, the chances are the culprit is the oil tube in the VVTi system. This was made from an iron-rubber-iron component that can sometimes perish over time. This was a common issue with pre-2010 Toyota engines, and there are now all-metal replacements to resolve the issue.

2. Idler Pulley Issues

Squealing or load rattling from the idler pulley is another issue that may need to be addressed. However, Toyota has also resolved this issue by creating a heavy-duty equivalent should you ever need to replace it.

3. Grinding Sounds after startup

There are reports of an engine noise that sounds almost like grinding after startup. This is usually caused by the VVTi system, which may require repair, so we advise listening out for this if you intend to purchase a 2GR-FE.

4. Low revs at idle

If you’re noticing low revs at idle, this has an easy fix of simply cleaning the throttle body, and this is advised to do every 30,000 miles to avoid the issue surfacing.

It is a good idea to upgrade components like water pumps, ignition coils, etc., as these are also known to fail in this engine.

These are all minor niggles in the grand scheme of things, and chances are you won’t even encounter them during your ownership. We always advise considering preventive measures, such as upgrading to the improved OEM Toyota parts, to begin with.

If you take good care of it, a Toyota 2GR-FE will serve you reliably for around 200,000 miles or 320,000 km.

What’s Next for Toyota’s 2GR Engine?

Since the release of the 2GR-FE, Toyota has continued to develop the awesome 2GR range through to the present day.

With the supercharged 2GR-FE most recently finding its way into the Lotus Exige Cup for their new 2018 model, it’s far from the end, even for the FE. The stock powerplant is also still being used in several production cars, such as Toyota’s Estima/Previa/Tarango range in the present day, and Lotus are still using it in the Evora.

With Toyota still using the 2GR-FSE in several production cars, such as the IS350, it looks as though they may head towards integrating the 2GR-FKS into more of their range soon.

Many of their most recent releases, such as the 2017 Toyota Camry and 2018 Lexus RC 350, have already begun using the FKS. Despite the hybrid FXS being introduced, which is based on the FKS engine, it would appear that we’re not yet going to see a true replacement for the FKS anytime soon.

Conclusion To Our 2GR FE Guide

Although the 2GR-FE is far from the most common engine swap, we always like to see different builds. JDM fans more traditionally opt for alternatives such as RB25DET’s, 1UZFE’s or 2JZ’s. Those who like to cause more controversy may add an LS engine.

2GR-FE swaps seem to be most commonly found in MR2 builds, and tuning shops were also swapping them into Lotus Elise’s and Exige’s way before Lexus realized it was a winning combination.

There’s no doubt that the 2GR-FE has fantastic power potential for a naturally aspirated engine, and if you have a little extra cash to spare, convenient supercharging options are available.

We’ve even witnessed extensive builds achieve over 800hp on the stock bottom end, albeit with extensive internal upgrades. And being a reliable Toyota powerplant, your mechanic will surely love you for having it!

With its smooth yet impressive power band and impeccable reliability, it’s easy to see why enthusiasts are opting for swapping these engines into their midship cars. We can imagine they’re heaps of fun, particularly with a supercharger strapped on.

As well as the impressive power and reliability, they can also sound pretty damn sexual! Make sure you head to our additional content below to check out some of our favorite sounds.

If you feel that the 2GR-FE is your engine choice, we always love to see crazy engine swaps that our fans have carried out, so feel free to drop us a line and show us your build. Who knows, we may even end up featuring it!

Additional 2GR FE Related Content

We’ve selected some of our favorite 2GR-FE YouTube picks for your viewing pleasure!

When we said that the 2GR-FE had the potential to sound sexual, we weren’t lying!

Want to see a 2GR-FE pushed to the limit? This one hits 8,000 RPM!

Check out the TRD Supercharger in action on this MR2.

A crazy Celica drag build. We’d love to see more of this!

Interested to see some of the best engines Toyota has to offer? This is an excellent guide.

You can check out everything you need to learn about Toyota’s 1MZ-FE engine here!

If you’re looking at other Toyota engines, check out our 2AZ-FE and 1GZ-FE engine guides.

Photography credits

Drifted would like to extend thanks to the following sources for the use of their images:

• Wheelsage
• CarThrottle
• I Heart Japanese Cars
• Toyota Tumblin’
• Swindon
• Paultan

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